Deer and Doe Reglisse Dress
Added Jun 9, 2013
London, United K...
As soon as I saw the Deer and Doe summer patterns I immediately ordered all three and made them up as soon as they arrived from France just seven days later. Having never made a Deer and Doe pattern I went with my measurements and was between two sizes so I decided to size up to the larger of the two with this dress as I would always prefer to have more wiggle room rather than less. I made a toile as always and realised that I didn’t need a single alteration, perfect fit from the envelope- can’t say fairer than that!
Although I didn’t alter anything fit- wise with this dress my personal construction of it varied in a number of ways to the pattern instructions. I always prefer to enclose my raw edges rather than finish them wherever possible. Although this often requires hand stitching I just far prefer to avoid lots of overcastting as its looks so much nicer and feels like a more durable garment to me.
The first change I made was with the yoke. I cut two additional yoke pieces to use as a yoke lining like one commonly would with a blouse. For the yoke linings I used a light weight white cotton lawn as my linen was quite substantial but if you were working with a light weight dress fabric you could self line them. Where the front bodice gathers into the yoke I sandwiched the gathers between the yoke and yoke lining. Then I turned under the other end of the yoke lining and stitched it down by hand to the seam where the yoke is attached to the back bodice. This enclosed all the raw edges and didn’t add any bulk as the cotton was very fine.
I used the same method for the waistband. Although the pattern instructs to you to cut a waistband lining the two are stitched in together and the edges overcast, instead I sandwiched the bodice between the two waistband pieces and then just like with the yokes I turned under the seam allowance on the lower edge of the waistband lining and stitched it down by hand to the seam where the waistband meets the skirt. This still created the same channel through which to thread the elastic but enclosed all the seams. I used the same lightweight cotton for this to once again avoid adding any bulk.
I also changed the way that the sleeves are attached to the dress- can I just say how much I LOVE the shape of the little cap sleeves on this dress! So simple, flattering and un-restrictive! The sleeves on this pattern are supposed to be folded in half wrong sides together with the raw edges even and attached to the bodice of the dress double. At this point you would then finish the armscye and sleeve raw edges together- most likely by over-locking or binding with bias binding. I only stitched one of the layers to the armscye and then I trimmed the seam allowances down to 5mm, folded the sleeve in half wrong sides together and turned under the second trimmed raw edge and stitched it down by hand. This enclosed all of the raw edges and removed any visible, bulky over-locking from this area or the need to make and attach binding.
The only other change I made to the dress was to make a little loop from the white linen which I stitched to the neckline to thread the tie collar through. I only did this because the white linen I used for the collar was quite stiff and didn’t knot very nicely.
Reglisse is such a comfy dress- perfect for a lazy summer afternoon. I will definitely be making some other versions of this dress and I am now a huge Deer and Doe fan.
Thanks for reading my review and please stop by my sewing blog for some detailed photos of the changes I made and how I constructed the garment.
I already had the exact fabric in mind which was a medium weight blue stripe linen from my stash. I had bought the fabric last summer just because it was such a gorgeous shade of blue and a lovely quality linen and it sprang to mind the minute I saw the pattern. The white stripe in the fabric lent itself perfectly to the contrast white tie collar and cap sleeves. Obviously this choice of fabric did mean taking the time to match up the stripes on the seams but I did this with a combination of lots of hand basting and dusting off and using my walking foot.