Added May 4, 2010
Line jacket, hem: Stitch allowances of centre seam on back lining together, 1 cm (3/8 in) from edge. Stitch along centre back at top and bottom, each about 5 cm (2 ins) long, for ease pleat, and baste in between. Press pleat to one side. Stitch darts and seams of lining. Set in sleeve linings. Stitch lining to inside edges of facing, laying hem allowance down. Lay lining inside jacket, pulling linings into sleeves. Lay hem allowance to inside and sew in place by hand. Turn in lining along lower edge of jacket and press fold edge lightly. Push upward in a shallow curve and pin to hem allowance. Sew facings and lining in place. Lay extra length of lining down and press lightly. Now first pin lining to underlap of sleeve vents. Trim lining lying on top to 1 cm (3/8 in) before edge of underlap, trim away 1 cm (3/8 in) below end of vent, and clip about 1 cm (3/8 in) long into corner. Turn in lining and pin to inside edge of vent facing and to top of vent. Turn in lower edge of lining and pin to hem allowance. Sew lining in place.
Turn in sleeve lining and sew to facing. Turn up lower edges of sleeves, about 4 cm (15/8 ins) wide.
Behind the seams with Marina von Koenig Part 2
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