Blue Velvet Jorinde Jacket

Added Apr 3, 2010

by Brumby Ramsay

Christchurch, Ne...

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Description

This jacket is the first in a Challenge I have set myself to sew a garment a week until my winter wardrobe is complete. It ended up taking two weeks to complete, and whilst I am happy with the final result, the journey to get there was not so pleasant.

I made a few adjustments based on other sewers feedback I had seen a year or so back, these projects no longer seem to be linked to the Jorinde for some reason. I do recall that they suggested cutting one size down from the measurements for a more tailored fit which I did but the rest I had to work out for myself in my toile.

So in addition I:

Shortened it by measuring across horizontally just under the pocket mark, I decreased it by 3cm. ( Ihave an hour glass figure and anything finishing at my hip line is unflattering so I pulled it up from my hip slightly)

Reduced the shoulder length by 1.5cm (I have a short shoulder, an adjustment I make on 95% of patterns)

Moved bust dart down 1.5cm

Moved the pocket down 1.5cm (Personal preference it just sat too high to be naturally comfortable for me)

Reshaped the back decreasing the waist by 3cm, hip by 2cm and 1cm at mid back ( I prefer to emphasize my waist as I find tailored shapes are more flattering, again personal design preference)

Removed yoke and made standard shoulder seam (Personal design preference)

Drafted a new front lining to omit darts and pockets etc

I ended up disregarding the instructions provided as to me they did not translate well, or fully, eg omitting instructions on when to sew the front shoulder dart, referring to piping which as far as I can garner was not part of the pattern pieces listed etc etc. I would be very interested to hear from anyone who has completed this successfully in regards to how you constructed the pockets because I struggled badly with these.
I had to recut the pocket facings and linings, to get my side seams to marry up, and really struggled to get the garment to sit right without get tucks etc. Maybe I am just plain ol’ stupid, but I would love to see a tutorial with pictures from BurdaStyle as to how these should have been done. In my years sewing I have not done darts and pockets quite like this before and none of my sewing books, or advice from other experienced sewers around me helped.

At the end of it, I am really pleased with the style and shape of the jacket, but based solely on those pockets I regretfully have to say that I cannot foresee making this pattern again unless the instructions were rectified. I am genuinely saddened I could not write a more favorable review on the process, because I really wanted to love constructing this as much as I love the final product.

Material Notes

Cotton Velvet with polyester satin lining

Difficulty

Intermediate

Categories

For
Women
Garment Type
Jacket/Blazer
Style
Classic, Romantic, Victorian, Vintage
Material
Cotton, Velvet

3 Comments Sign in to add a post

  • Mumie_portrait_large

    Apr 26, 2010, 08.38 PMby oinochoe

    very nice, I like the Sleevessolution withe velvet and satin

  • Burda5_large

    Apr 26, 2010, 08.22 AMby fairyprincess

    Blue velvet, top choice!

  • Dsc_0028_large

    Apr 26, 2010, 08.07 AMby Passiona Cottee

    Hi Brumby, What a beautiful result! The blue velvet looks fabulous. Great choice. The sketch on your website is amazing, too.

    I made a variation of Jorinde (Neo Frou) and can concur with your sentiments with one exception. First, you are not alone in your decision to disregard the detail in the instructions. Their usefulness is limited to the general order of assembly.

    Second, you couldn’t be more right about the pocket facings and linings. Mine ended up part in the side seam and part not. Some clearer notes or pictures on that part of the construction would help.

    Third, I think the piping is intended to run as a lip around the pocket. I passed mine around the bottom lip only (after much agonising, as I had changed the front dart to a piping line which made my own personal challenge for the pocket).

    The exception… Some of your changes are made to suit your vision/drawing. And the likeness of the finished result is striking. Is it fair to say some of your changes were to achieve the look you were after rather than a flaw with the pattern? Being a boyfriend blazer it is more boxy than curved and tailored. Your end result is more feminine. And a real delight.

    I am looking forward to how your garment-a-week goal turns out! What’s next…?

    1 Reply
    • Avatar_250x250_large

      Apr 26, 2010, 08.51 PMby Brumby Ramsay

      Thank you very much for your comments they are very sweet. Yes I had seen your pattern and referred desperately back to it in hope you too had made a comment about the pockets not going smoothly, you are obviously more forgiving than I for not pointing it out in your review :-).
      The piping I could not see as a pattern piece at all, nor on the actual Jorinde jacket shown by BS, it was probably the least of my worries to be honest, but more set me up to a frame of mind of doubt about the whole lot of instructions.
      As for the exception, yes the changes were totally to do with personal preference, thanks for pointing out that this is not clear and comes across as a pattern flaw, will reword my description to cover the reasons behind the adjustment!
      As for whats next, a very simple princess seam dress made from a knit fabric, although I also traced out a couple of Burda Magazine patterns last night which I hope to make time to make one of those up as my second pattern this week as well (toile going well).

      Thanks again for your comments, and for stopping by my site!

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This project is based on

Burdastyle

http://burdastyle.com//projects/blue-velvet-jorinde-jacket