Added Apr 3, 2010
This jacket is the first in a Challenge I have set myself to sew a garment a week until my winter wardrobe is complete. It ended up taking two weeks to complete, and whilst I am happy with the final result, the journey to get there was not so pleasant.
I made a few adjustments based on other sewers feedback I had seen a year or so back, these projects no longer seem to be linked to the Jorinde for some reason. I do recall that they suggested cutting one size down from the measurements for a more tailored fit which I did but the rest I had to work out for myself in my toile.
So in addition I:
Shortened it by measuring across horizontally just under the pocket mark, I decreased it by 3cm. ( Ihave an hour glass figure and anything finishing at my hip line is unflattering so I pulled it up from my hip slightly)
Reduced the shoulder length by 1.5cm (I have a short shoulder, an adjustment I make on 95% of patterns)
Moved bust dart down 1.5cm
Moved the pocket down 1.5cm (Personal preference it just sat too high to be naturally comfortable for me)
Reshaped the back decreasing the waist by 3cm, hip by 2cm and 1cm at mid back ( I prefer to emphasize my waist as I find tailored shapes are more flattering, again personal design preference)
Removed yoke and made standard shoulder seam (Personal design preference)
Drafted a new front lining to omit darts and pockets etc
I ended up disregarding the instructions provided as to me they did not translate well, or fully, eg omitting instructions on when to sew the front shoulder dart, referring to piping which as far as I can garner was not part of the pattern pieces listed etc etc. I would be very interested to hear from anyone who has completed this successfully in regards to how you constructed the pockets because I struggled badly with these.
I had to recut the pocket facings and linings, to get my side seams to marry up, and really struggled to get the garment to sit right without get tucks etc. Maybe I am just plain ol’ stupid, but I would love to see a tutorial with pictures from BurdaStyle as to how these should have been done. In my years sewing I have not done darts and pockets quite like this before and none of my sewing books, or advice from other experienced sewers around me helped.
At the end of it, I am really pleased with the style and shape of the jacket, but based solely on those pockets I regretfully have to say that I cannot foresee making this pattern again unless the instructions were rectified. I am genuinely saddened I could not write a more favorable review on the process, because I really wanted to love constructing this as much as I love the final product.
Cotton Velvet with polyester satin lining
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