Burda Style For people who sew

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  May 19, 2009, 04.11 PMby riverpatch

  It can be easier to lengthen sleeves than to take body out of a shirt pattern. Try measuring his collar to shoulder carefully, then find the closest corresponding measurement on the shoulder of the back yoke (remember to account for seam allowances), and choose your size from there. That is, fit the shoulder first.

  It’s easy then to lengthen the sleeves, just mark around the shoulder and about 2/3 down the sleeve arm, then move the sleeve pattern down to the desired length by measuring along the grain line from the shoulder, mark the wrist and side seams about 1/4 way up the sleeve, remember to maintain the integrity of the grain line, check the shoulder sits into the wrist nicely, adjust if necessary, then join the sleeve side seems.

  If the shoulder is correct on your bf for the size you made, then I’d suggest the adjustments needed would warrant looking for a new style that works better for your man :) This is because if you narrow the body, you have to change the yoke, which may mean changing the collar. UNLESS, you can cut it down along the front and back side seams, while leaving the top 3cms of the side seams at original width to match yoke and sleeves. This pattern however is already a body shirt style, so I tend to think that any further narrowing without also adjusting the yoke could make it top heavy. UNLESS (lol) you can follow the taper of the body curve slightly inwards/ straight down, instead of tapering it out as in the pattern. This may work if the excess fabric on your bf is around the lower part of the shirt
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  Feb 15, 2009, 05.28 AMby sewella

  You did really well! Great job!