Bespoken shirt

Added Sep 26, 2011

by elguanche

Cologne, Germany

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Views

667

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Description

A new try to get myself a bespoken shirt. After a big weight reduction, it drives me crazy to get a nice tight fitting shirt but WITH ease allowence.

So this one is made out of two different cotton fabrics, to have some contrast.
Cotton has the advantage, that after a while of wearing it, the shirt will adjust itselves HAHAHAH because it is to tight in armholes and sleeves, as you can see very clearly on the dummy.

So I will continue the search of getting a perfect pattern.

Pattern made by using the system Müller & Sohn.

So far,
Basti

Material Notes

Cotton, dark blue

Difficulty

Intermediate

Categories

Season
Fall, Winter
For
Men
Garment Type
Shirts
Style
Casual
Material
Cotton

4 Comments Sign in to add a post

  • Missing

    Nov 10, 2011, 07.45 PMby rijnsburgerweg

    Elguanche, Thank you for your kind response! :) Lucia Mors’s book is the only book on Muller and Sohn system that is in English AND affordable. I have since looked for the “Der Zuschnitt fuer die Damenschneiderei” (vintage version of the Rundschau one) to buy online, but they are expensive. I will eventually buy it, I guess, because by now I am hooked on the Muller and sohn method, but I need to save first. :)

    My problem: The armhole in my sloper is too close to the armpit, but fits well on the the rest of the section.

    I calculated my armlochdurchmesser using the following formula: 1/8xBrustumfang – 1.5 cm = 11 cm. I added 2.5 cm ease, so, my adjusted AD is 13.5 cm. My ruckenhohe is 19 with additional 2.5 cm ease = 21.5

    So now I’m trying to figure out if I should add ease to the ruckenhohe, thus creating an extra ease from the armpit down; or adding more ease to the armlochdurchmesser, as you suggested, creating a larger armhole in general.

    My apology for the detailed question. I have been searching high and low online about Muller and sohn armhole adjustment tip, but I can find nothing! And I know no one around who’s using Muller and sohn method, so I’m stuck.

    Thank you for your kind response.

    All the best, Rijnsburgerweg ps the muller and sohn method makes the sleeve hangs very nicely! I really like it when I tried my pattern on a muslin, but I have to figure out how to adjust my armhole before I can transfer my pattern to the actual fabric.

    1 Reply
    • 310320122353_large

      Nov 12, 2011, 06.47 AMby elguanche

      11cm AD sounds veryyy little. I would try to give 15cm.
      But I don’t know your whole chestmeasure.

      But also I have know, what kind of pattern you are creating… are you male or female?

      Maybe you can send me a few fotos… its very hard to talk about thinks without seeing them :(

      Yes… books from Müller are very expansive. But they are worth it! :-)

      So long
      Basti

  • Missing

    Nov 10, 2011, 01.33 PMby rijnsburgerweg

    Dear Elguanche, I am learning to draft my own pattern using Müller & Sohn method which I pick from Lucia Mors’s book (Patternmaking in practice step-by-step guide). I have drafted and sewn several slopers, adjusted and readjusted the measurements to create a sloper that fit, but the armhole is always too small. In her book, Lucia Mors does not give a direction on how to adjust the armhole properly. I am thinking, perhaps I have to give extra ease on the back height (rueckenhoehe), more ease than Lucia Mors adcive for a trenchcoat/overcoat sizing, so that the armhole can be larger?

    I wonder what Muller and Sohn advise will be for women with “unique” dimensions… :).

    Thanks! RB

    1 Reply
    • 310320122353_large

      Nov 10, 2011, 07.00 PMby elguanche

      Hey,
      well I don’t know exactly what kind of draft do you use… unfortunately, I even don’t know your mentioned book.

      But what happens with your armhole? You wrote, that it was to small. But where to small? Not high enough or are you speaking of the width? If so, (last option) you can easy adjust it by giving more ease into the Armlochdurchmesser. How much did you give here?

      So long
      Basti

  • 310320122353_large

    Sep 28, 2011, 05.40 AMby elguanche

    thank you patti! :)

  • Patti_12-28-2011_large

    Sep 27, 2011, 10.10 PMby patti-r

    Look Great!!

    • This is a question
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