As mentioned with the posting of Nora’s gown, when Nora and Benedikta went to the Bambi Awards, we had the golden opportunity to make both their gowns. Benedikta’s gown is a work of art. The multi-tiered ruffles swing and flare from a diagonal body with an a-symmetrical elegance. In her own words Benedikta explains: “This gown, made from Silk Crepe with Lycra combined with Silk Taffeta, was inspired by the designer I worked for right out of school. Besides many other useful tips, he taught me how bias is done best. His techniques replaced the side seam with something called an X-seam. The X-seam, visible on each side of the bias-cut dress, creates a criss-crossed seam from the bust dart to the hip dart. At first, the pattern pieces may look quite unfamiliar but you will see what a rich way of pattern making opens up once you’ve gotten used to it.”
We used a stretch silk crepe for the bodice (this fabric must be stretchable). We also used taffeta for the ruffles, with tulle providing volume underneath.
Jamie M. Rosenthal
Eleanor
Project of the Week
Fit for many occasions this pattern is now available in pattern sizes 44-60.
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Ever worked with a vintage pattern that has no markings? Figure out how it works!
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lizzie225 has done it again with this great top/dress creation!
Blast from the Past
This basic hoodie is the perfect base to keep you warm and stylish
Technique of the week
Learn how to alter a basic bodice into a "leaf" pleated bodice
Aug 30, 2009, 10.03 AMby DrakeAuge
This is just so beautiful! If I hadn’t already found a dress for prom I would have considered this one! Either in purple, lavender or moss green^^ Great work, keep it up! imagines being the belle of the ball at school, having the greatest dress of all
Jul 15, 2009, 09.46 PMby suhleenah
I just purchased fabric to make this dress- a hazy teal stretch satin charmeuse for the bodice and tonally coordinating handkerchief weight linen for the ruffles. I think that will nicely temper the style while removing that “80’s” feel another poster opined. I have some detail ideas to give this a modern, edgy but not too dressy look. I’ll be sure to post photos of the finished dress!
Apr 29, 2009, 07.31 AMby katring
What are you girls talking about!? Throw back to the 80s? This is real Carmin Miranda style! So exotic! I would have worn this to my prom in the 70s! Its truly a stunner! You would definetly Not blend, everyone would be looking and envying!
Apr 28, 2009, 03.35 PMby olivia.n
Wow! Love it! I love the salsa-ness of it… I can see it with a different neckline, maybe? Who knows! <3 the color, too!
Apr 26, 2009, 04.20 PMby somecandytalkin
Oh wow…80’s barf. Fail, Burda. Fail.
Apr 26, 2009, 01.25 AMby Milkyway
Dont like it at all, it doesnt make any shape, color is boring, and is so 80’s nothing special
Apr 23, 2009, 05.17 AMby SewVeryTall
I think the x-seams are an interesting idea, but I fail to see how it affected the fit or look of the dress. It seems like the x-seams should add a nice curve to the fitting, or flattering design lines that show, but they don’t. Then there’s those big stiff poorly-sewn flounces, that are way too big around the neckline, like wearing huge gawdy jewelry. I think the fabrics don’t go together, mostly because of the stiffness of the flounces. I agree with another poster who said the flounces should’ve been made from silk charmeuse (double, self-faced)…the drape would be so lovely and soft, as well as the way they would move as the wearer walked in it. I would still omit the neckline flounce…it seems contrived or overly planned, to force the top to match the bottom, and just plain doesn’t look good at all. Then there’s the zipper. This may seem like a cool and unique placement, but it’s not doing its job. This dress will still need to be put on over one’s head, messing up their hair. A dress like this, worn to a formal occasion, needs a special hairdo…who wants to do their hair AFTER putting their dress on? The unusual look of the diagonal zipper is not worth it, if you ask me.
Apr 23, 2009, 01.35 AMby Lilo
Finally a dresss worth paying for! Not really my style (kind’a plus size), but that X-seam sounds exciting. I will probably go for a lightweight transparent chiffon in mild colors for the ruffles to make it more wearable.
Apr 22, 2009, 04.25 PMby atogunatv
Fist I love the concept. I love this type of glamor. I spent Many days looking at old garments in the FIt Costume Lab. Even for the Plus size and not perfectly proportioned a skilled dressmaker can adapt this style to fit and flatter. Substitute softer fabrics for the hemline or simplify the flounce at the hem.
The “X” seam is not new it is an adaptation on "French’ dart and is used when a Bias roll technique is employed in construction. The resulting "tube has no side seams but a strong diagonal stitch lines (where older dressmaker hid the zippers) and an asymmetrical hemline. When a more fitted look was desired they used decorative or hidden darts eg "french"darts. It was an economical way of constructing on the bias, as 3/4 yard of a 60" fabric would create the tube to fit a 38" Hipline for the body of this dress.
It is a “patternless” technique I arnat from an older dressmaker and I now use especially with more expensive fabrics. I’m not sure what the format is for posting “patternless” How-To’s, but I’ll work on a how to if anyone is interested.
I have mixed feelings about the zipper. In a formal dress it should be eradicated or a hidden zipper used. If a younger look is desired then this works but maybe do the body in a stretch denim.
That said why “Must the Fabric be stretch” if there is a zipper and the dress is cut on the bias.
Bias cut clothing provides a slight give. and a strech would not need to be on the bias.
A closer look at the garment in the picture though shows problems in the construction. (Oh no I sound like my mother) In the photo That highlights where the flounce joins the body, why is the tape showing? There are also pinches where the flounce is joined to the garment; to avoid this, small slits in the seam allowance of the flounce would help.
Those pull lines at the waist show a tension that needs to be released:- I am not sure if the dart is clipped or the waist area is simply pulled too tight.
A previous commenter was right on the hem! If a100% natural fabric is uses a good old fashioned hand rolled hem or a machine roll using reinforcement. Or a purl stitch could work, for a younger look
a blunt cut with a wood burning tool!
That said I am on to look at the other styles by this member, I love the old Romance new spunk sensibility!
.
Apr 22, 2009, 11.35 AMby Sigrid
I too am intrigued by the X-seam, I also like the asymmetry of the ruffles and could see adapting this to a flamenco-style outfit. Personally, I think the style would look better on a models with some serious curves to counter ballance the ruffles.
Apr 22, 2009, 08.24 AMby oonaballoona
Apr 21, 2009, 08.39 PMby bluecinquefoil
The dress is beautiful and a bit “ethnic” reminding me of flamenco dresses. I couldn’t possibly wear or use it but it looks really nice and the work in it is very nice that i could see. I would love to see someone make a basic blouse or basic tunic or dress pattern with the x shaping it is really interesting and something that would be good to try to work with in a variety of fabrics. Looked lovely in the dress.
Apr 21, 2009, 08.11 PMby dharma51
Very cute dress. I really like the combination of fabrics and the seams. The only thing I don’t like is the way the ruffles are hemmed. I would have lined them to give the dress a classier look
Apr 21, 2009, 04.12 PMby Wilson80197
Ruffles are just not my style, but it is a beautiful dress.
Apr 21, 2009, 02.29 PMby caroleleah
Ummm… Am I going to have to be the first to actually criticize this gorgeous creation? I LOVE the dress! The fabrics, color, incredibly creative cut; all are fabulous! But, in a dress of this detail, WHY would I want to have the hem bindings of my ruffles showing on the wrong side???? It seems that a double-layer (folded double and attached at raw edges) ruffle would be WAY more appropriate. The taffeta is meant to have body and stand away from the dress, so a doubled ruffle would certainly not be too crisp. Also, if this dress were done entirely in a drapey charmeuse, a doubled ruffle would have a totally “liquid” drape, providing a variation to the lovely line. That’s just my thoughts on what I see as an enormous oversight on the ruffles. If not for that, the dress is stunning! I’m like many others who have commented that the pattern would be well worth buying for the inventive X-seam alone, even if I never had an occasion “worthy” of the dress itself! Nice work, Burda! How wonderful to see this and the last pattern you’ve created, as a refreshing change!
Apr 21, 2009, 02.10 PMby suzq51
With a few adjustments this could make a unique wedding gown (in white of course)
Apr 21, 2009, 02.01 PMby Alice-Macey
Very 80’s love it!
Apr 21, 2009, 01.23 PMby candigirl
I love the purple of this dress.. but I think it also would have been beautiful in a teal or turquoise color…very vibrant, and would really stand out in a crowd of black dresses, which one sees so many of at formal events.
I do have a question, though..there are credits for stylist, model, etc…and “hairstylist”…I am wondering how someone got credit for the hairstyle here..it looks like she just pulled her hair back into a ponytail without even brushing it. Hey, she is a pretty girl, but that is not a “hairstyle”.
Apr 21, 2009, 12.30 PMby crafteevivi
Oh this latina mamita loves it. More than the eighties, I think it’s very Flamenco-like. I’m plus size too, so this pattern wouldn’t exactly do for me, but I have some crazy wonderful ideas thanks to it. Bravo!
Apr 21, 2009, 11.50 AMby erdronen
I agree with many of the other comments on this one! It’s absolutely stunning, but the ruffles are not really my style, not to mention I would have nowhere to wear it! I really love the interesting seams and am dying to try them out! I can’t wait to make my own version using the bodice- how cool! Great job and thanks for sharing a new technique!
Apr 21, 2009, 08.29 AMby a_lemess
love it! even the 80’s throwback-ness of it. it’s like an upgraded, classy-ified version of the 80’s prom dress that actually looks good. not that I would have the balls to wear it, but it’s awesome!
Apr 21, 2009, 07.55 AMby craftdinner
cute, but you have to have a good figure to wear this.. would not be flattering if you have a belly….. not saying you have to be skinny, just a flat tummy….. hips and a bum would look great…..
Apr 21, 2009, 04.55 AMby CarotteSauvage
Great creation! Thanks for posting patterns of this standard, as mentioned above, it is well worth the price!
Apr 21, 2009, 04.51 AMby teresaschwarz
I could see this exquisite piece in black and white. Or all the ruffles in airy layers of sheer chiffon? I want to just make the muslin to see how the x-seams work. This is an amazing piece and if you don’t like the ruffles or its too “80’s” try making the bodice and adding different treatments to the hem and neckline.
Apr 21, 2009, 04.48 AMby zora
It’s not my style at all but it’s certainly a rather unique dress. I’m not that much into huge ruffles or 80s styles. I appreciate that you posted the amount of fabric in meters too.
Apr 21, 2009, 12.59 AMby PrutsPrinses
I love this dress! And the ruffles :) Such a pity I don’t really have an occasion to wear it… Otherwise, paying 7.50 for this is totally worth it. The dress is gorgeous and the x-seams are really interesting!!! Very inventive :)
Apr 21, 2009, 12.35 AMby Ghainskom
This is definitely not my style but I like that this week’s pattern is showing a new technique. I had never hear of an X-seam before. I like the look of it and I think it’s probably more comfortable than regular side seams. I’d like to see how it can be used in less formal garments and how you can maybe convert a pattern with side seams to one with x-seams (how-to?). Thank you for the enrichment.
Apr 21, 2009, 12.34 AMby lauriana
To me, the ruffles are a bit too bold and 80’s as well. That said however, I’m intrigued by the tale of the X-seam, so much so that I may just have to buy this pattern just to see how it’s done. Without the ruffles and with a simpler skirt it might just make a chic summer dress. I love it that Burdastyle has now posted a pattern that’s so creative technically that it poses a challenge to experienced members.
Apr 21, 2009, 12.04 AMby Hajnika
Wow! What a creation! I like very much that interesting pattern. The dress is very special,and I like those beautiful ruffles,and the dress has a beautiful colour…Just I loove it!!
Apr 20, 2009, 11.50 PMby Erin
It’s so great, I love it! But unfortunately I think I don’t have the chance to wear it, because there is no event to go in such a special dress…