Benedikta

Added Apr 20, 2009

By burdastyle

New York, New Yo...

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63862

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Description

As mentioned with the posting of Nora’s gown, when Nora and Benedikta went to the Bambi Awards, we had the golden opportunity to make both their gowns. Benedikta’s gown is a work of art. The multi-tiered ruffles swing and flare from a diagonal body with an a-symmetrical elegance. In her own words Benedikta explains: “This gown, made from Silk Crepe with Lycra combined with Silk Taffeta, was inspired by the designer I worked for right out of school. Besides many other useful tips, he taught me how bias is done best. His techniques replaced the side seam with something called an X-seam. The X-seam, visible on each side of the bias-cut dress, creates a criss-crossed seam from the bust dart to the hip dart. At first, the pattern pieces may look quite unfamiliar but you will see what a rich way of pattern making opens up once you’ve gotten used to it.”

Material Notes

We used a stretch silk crepe for the bodice (this fabric must be stretchable). We also used taffeta for the ruffles, with tulle providing volume underneath.

Difficulty

Expert

Categories

For
Women
Garment Type
Dress
Style
Evening Wear, Romantic
Material
Silk, Taffeta, Tulle

Credits

Photographer
Stylist
Hair & Make-up
Model

39 Comments Sign in to add a post

  • 149646_461287717745_580112745_6144100_1261499_n_large

    Sep 26, 2010, 01.27 AMby gaviccaabri

    flamenco :)

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    May 3, 2010, 09.24 PMby pixxxiepie

    Wow. It is a very interesting dress but where the heck to wear it unless you’re throwing a “Back to the 80’s Party”. I was just at a Goodwill weeks ago scavenging for fabrics and saw a similar dress there for a few bucks and a team of young girls giggling at it and whispering cattily “What were they thinking?” to each other.

    Definitely rockin’ the 80’s vibe here with the loud ruffling, iridescent fabric…and the general cut of the dress. It’s also totally awesome to see the wide range of opinions on this one too. You see the basic “love it” comments all the way to the detailed seamstress take-down of what the heck is wrong with the garment and this is why I love this site because you learn things from everybody that participates here…not just the folks running the site.

    My opinion on this one (and I have been eying it since it was initially posted here some time ago):Damn interesting but a bit impractical unless you’re like a Flamenco dancer or something, lol (not like fashion has to be practical though). But 10 points for the “x” shaped cut of this bodice and showing off a different sewing technique new to quite a few people.

    That seam is totally wild, but I’m with one commenter that wonders why a stretch fabric is needed with a zipper and a bias cut fabric that would have a bit of give anyway since its bias cut. The zipper draws the eye …as do a few other areas…and not in a good way. There are areas that look as if there is tension or bumps that don’t need to be there and these areas create distractions.

    But it could be that different fabrics would change the situation…or making it “off the shoulder”…or making the ruffles out of a fabric that doesn’t have so much “flounce”. Maybe a more formal hair style or make up job on the model would tie things up a bit more too since she seems so casual in comparison to what she’s wearing.

    All in all, it’s still interesting though I’ve made a vow to stay away from 80’s throwbacks at all costs…but I’m painfully partial to styles from the 1920-50’s and the Victorian era and such (yeah, I like to pull waaay back)..so I could just be exercising some bias here, lol.

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    Apr 11, 2010, 01.16 PMby silkrugs

    I am thinking of fabrics that would give this dress casual look. Perhaps I could make the bodice in denim colored lycra. Then if i make the skirt ruffles in a cotton denim the same color as the lyrca but eliminate the shoulder ruffles, the garment might look more casual particularly if worn with a wedge heel sandal.
  • Missing

    Apr 11, 2010, 01.15 PMby silkrugs

    I am thinking of fabrics that would give this dress casual look. Perhaps I could make the bodice in denim colored lycra. Then if i make the skirt ruffles in a cotton denim the same color as the lyrca but eliminate the shoulder ruffles, would the garment look more casual particularly if worn with a wedge heel sandal?
  • Missing

    Aug 30, 2009, 10.03 AMby drakeauge

    This is just so beautiful! If I hadn’t already found a dress for prom I would have considered this one! Either in purple, lavender or moss green^^ Great work, keep it up! imagines being the belle of the ball at school, having the greatest dress of all

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    Jul 15, 2009, 09.46 PMby suhleenah

    I just purchased fabric to make this dress- a hazy teal stretch satin charmeuse for the bodice and tonally coordinating handkerchief weight linen for the ruffles. I think that will nicely temper the style while removing that “80’s” feel another poster opined. I have some detail ideas to give this a modern, edgy but not too dressy look. I’ll be sure to post photos of the finished dress!

  • Missing

    Apr 29, 2009, 07.31 AMby katring

    What are you girls talking about!? Throw back to the 80s? This is real Carmin Miranda style! So exotic! I would have worn this to my prom in the 70s! Its truly a stunner! You would definetly Not blend, everyone would be looking and envying!

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    Apr 28, 2009, 03.35 PMby olivian

    Wow! Love it! I love the salsa-ness of it… I can see it with a different neckline, maybe? Who knows! <3 the color, too!

  • Missing

    Apr 26, 2009, 04.20 PMby somecandytalkin

    Oh wow…80’s barf. Fail, Burda. Fail.

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    Apr 26, 2009, 01.25 AMby milkyway

    Dont like it at all, it doesnt make any shape, color is boring, and is so 80’s nothing special

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    Apr 23, 2009, 05.17 AMby sewverytall

    I think the x-seams are an interesting idea, but I fail to see how it affected the fit or look of the dress. It seems like the x-seams should add a nice curve to the fitting, or flattering design lines that show, but they don’t. Then there’s those big stiff poorly-sewn flounces, that are way too big around the neckline, like wearing huge gawdy jewelry. I think the fabrics don’t go together, mostly because of the stiffness of the flounces. I agree with another poster who said the flounces should’ve been made from silk charmeuse (double, self-faced)…the drape would be so lovely and soft, as well as the way they would move as the wearer walked in it. I would still omit the neckline flounce…it seems contrived or overly planned, to force the top to match the bottom, and just plain doesn’t look good at all. Then there’s the zipper. This may seem like a cool and unique placement, but it’s not doing its job. This dress will still need to be put on over one’s head, messing up their hair. A dress like this, worn to a formal occasion, needs a special hairdo…who wants to do their hair AFTER putting their dress on? The unusual look of the diagonal zipper is not worth it, if you ask me.

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    Apr 23, 2009, 01.35 AMby lilo

    Finally a dresss worth paying for! Not really my style (kind’a plus size), but that X-seam sounds exciting. I will probably go for a lightweight transparent chiffon in mild colors for the ruffles to make it more wearable.

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    Apr 22, 2009, 04.25 PMby atogunatv

    Fist I love the concept. I love this type of glamor. I spent Many days looking at old garments in the FIt Costume Lab. Even for the Plus size and not perfectly proportioned a skilled dressmaker can adapt this style to fit and flatter. Substitute softer fabrics for the hemline or simplify the flounce at the hem.

    The “X” seam is not new it is an adaptation on "French’ dart and is used when a Bias roll technique is employed in construction. The resulting "tube has no side seams but a strong diagonal stitch lines (where older dressmaker hid the zippers) and an asymmetrical hemline. When a more fitted look was desired they used decorative or hidden darts eg "french"darts. It was an economical way of constructing on the bias, as 3/4 yard of a 60" fabric would create the tube to fit a 38" Hipline for the body of this dress.

    It is a “patternless” technique I arnat from an older dressmaker and I now use especially with more expensive fabrics. I’m not sure what the format is for posting “patternless” How-To’s, but I’ll work on a how to if anyone is interested.

    I have mixed feelings about the zipper. In a formal dress it should be eradicated or a hidden zipper used. If a younger look is desired then this works but maybe do the body in a stretch denim.

    That said why “Must the Fabric be stretch” if there is a zipper and the dress is cut on the bias.

    Bias cut clothing provides a slight give. and a strech would not need to be on the bias.

    A closer look at the garment in the picture though shows problems in the construction. (Oh no I sound like my mother) In the photo That highlights where the flounce joins the body, why is the tape showing? There are also pinches where the flounce is joined to the garment; to avoid this, small slits in the seam allowance of the flounce would help.

    Those pull lines at the waist show a tension that needs to be released:- I am not sure if the dart is clipped or the waist area is simply pulled too tight.

    A previous commenter was right on the hem! If a100% natural fabric is uses a good old fashioned hand rolled hem or a machine roll using reinforcement. Or a purl stitch could work, for a younger look a blunt cut with a wood burning tool!

    That said I am on to look at the other styles by this member, I love the old Romance new spunk sensibility!

    .

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    Apr 22, 2009, 11.35 AMby sigrid

    I too am intrigued by the X-seam, I also like the asymmetry of the ruffles and could see adapting this to a flamenco-style outfit. Personally, I think the style would look better on a models with some serious curves to counter ballance the ruffles.

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    Apr 22, 2009, 08.24 AMby oonaballoona

    this dress is stunning. that diagonal zipper across the back is CRAZY. and by crazy i mean awesome. surely it’s not for everyone, but what pattern is? exquisite dress, burdastyle peeps, i hope to have a reason to make it soon!
  • Missing

    Apr 21, 2009, 08.39 PMby bluecinquefoil

    The dress is beautiful and a bit “ethnic” reminding me of flamenco dresses. I couldn’t possibly wear or use it but it looks really nice and the work in it is very nice that i could see. I would love to see someone make a basic blouse or basic tunic or dress pattern with the x shaping it is really interesting and something that would be good to try to work with in a variety of fabrics. Looked lovely in the dress.

  • Missing

    Apr 21, 2009, 08.11 PMby dharma51

    Very cute dress. I really like the combination of fabrics and the seams. The only thing I don’t like is the way the ruffles are hemmed. I would have lined them to give the dress a classier look

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    Apr 21, 2009, 04.12 PMby Sandy Wilson

    Ruffles are just not my style, but it is a beautiful dress.

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    Apr 21, 2009, 02.29 PMby caroleleah

    Ummm… Am I going to have to be the first to actually criticize this gorgeous creation? I LOVE the dress! The fabrics, color, incredibly creative cut; all are fabulous! But, in a dress of this detail, WHY would I want to have the hem bindings of my ruffles showing on the wrong side???? It seems that a double-layer (folded double and attached at raw edges) ruffle would be WAY more appropriate. The taffeta is meant to have body and stand away from the dress, so a doubled ruffle would certainly not be too crisp. Also, if this dress were done entirely in a drapey charmeuse, a doubled ruffle would have a totally “liquid” drape, providing a variation to the lovely line. That’s just my thoughts on what I see as an enormous oversight on the ruffles. If not for that, the dress is stunning! I’m like many others who have commented that the pattern would be well worth buying for the inventive X-seam alone, even if I never had an occasion “worthy” of the dress itself! Nice work, Burda! How wonderful to see this and the last pattern you’ve created, as a refreshing change!

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    Apr 21, 2009, 02.10 PMby suzq51

    With a few adjustments this could make a unique wedding gown (in white of course)

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    Apr 21, 2009, 02.01 PMby alice-grant

    Very 80’s love it!

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    Apr 21, 2009, 01.23 PMby candigirl

    I love the purple of this dress.. but I think it also would have been beautiful in a teal or turquoise color…very vibrant, and would really stand out in a crowd of black dresses, which one sees so many of at formal events.

    I do have a question, though..there are credits for stylist, model, etc…and “hairstylist”…I am wondering how someone got credit for the hairstyle here..it looks like she just pulled her hair back into a ponytail without even brushing it. Hey, she is a pretty girl, but that is not a “hairstyle”.

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    Apr 21, 2009, 12.30 PMby crafteevivi

    Oh this latina mamita loves it. More than the eighties, I think it’s very Flamenco-like. I’m plus size too, so this pattern wouldn’t exactly do for me, but I have some crazy wonderful ideas thanks to it. Bravo!

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    Apr 21, 2009, 11.50 AMby erdronen

    I agree with many of the other comments on this one! It’s absolutely stunning, but the ruffles are not really my style, not to mention I would have nowhere to wear it! I really love the interesting seams and am dying to try them out! I can’t wait to make my own version using the bodice- how cool! Great job and thanks for sharing a new technique!

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    Apr 21, 2009, 08.29 AMby alemess

    love it! even the 80’s throwback-ness of it. it’s like an upgraded, classy-ified version of the 80’s prom dress that actually looks good. not that I would have the balls to wear it, but it’s awesome!

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    Apr 21, 2009, 07.55 AMby craftdinner

    cute, but you have to have a good figure to wear this.. would not be flattering if you have a belly….. not saying you have to be skinny, just a flat tummy….. hips and a bum would look great…..

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    Apr 21, 2009, 04.55 AMby carottesauvage

    Great creation! Thanks for posting patterns of this standard, as mentioned above, it is well worth the price!

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    Apr 21, 2009, 04.51 AMby TerezaSews

    I could see this exquisite piece in black and white. Or all the ruffles in airy layers of sheer chiffon? I want to just make the muslin to see how the x-seams work. This is an amazing piece and if you don’t like the ruffles or its too “80’s” try making the bodice and adding different treatments to the hem and neckline.

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    Apr 21, 2009, 12.59 AMby teamydear

    I love this dress! And the ruffles :) Such a pity I don’t really have an occasion to wear it… Otherwise, paying 7.50 for this is totally worth it. The dress is gorgeous and the x-seams are really interesting!!! Very inventive :)

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    Apr 21, 2009, 12.35 AMby ghainskom

    This is definitely not my style but I like that this week’s pattern is showing a new technique. I had never hear of an X-seam before. I like the look of it and I think it’s probably more comfortable than regular side seams. I’d like to see how it can be used in less formal garments and how you can maybe convert a pattern with side seams to one with x-seams (how-to?). Thank you for the enrichment.

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http://burdastyle.com//projects/benedikta