Added Jul 6, 2013
I used my pant sloper as a base for this jean pattern. For the first muslin I only drafted out new legs and crotch seams. In the first fitting I marked on the muslin new waist height, back yoke and pockets, and front pockets. I made a second muslin too, to make sure that all the fit issues and pattern changes I marked in the first fitting, worked.
Since I have a very straight body, I tried to make sure that all the design features enhance some parts of my body – front pockets should make my hips seem wider, back pockets and yoke should make my but look rounder.
I flared the legs out starting slightly above my knees. As for the flare, I didn’t want to go too wide since the wider the leg, the more dirt and dust you brush up from the streets.
Fitting jeans made from non stretch denim for ladies is a bit harder than fitting stretch denim jeans. You have to keep in mind that 100% cotton denim has not the give stretch denim has, and leave some room so one can still walk and sit in them when they are slim fitted around thigh and seat area.
For topstitching I used the traditional dark yellow jean thread. Bar tacks are sewn with regular No100 thread (to avoid bulk) in the same shade as the top stitching thread. On back pockets and belt loops I added an additional row of topstitching in navy blue which I made using my old Brother’s seam No2 – triple stretch stitch. I just really like how the seam looks used as topstitching. And on the front legs the crease lines are sewn in – just a design detail I personally really really like.
Back yoke and crotch are joined by flat-felled seams, using my own method. For front crotch I used a technique seen in this video. I attached all my zipper fly pieces and then made the front crotch seam, which in my opinion, was easier than some other techniques I’ve seen around the web.
I’ve always loved flared jeans and am so very happy that I finally made a pair for myself that fits me everywhere (I usually struggle to find RTW jeans that are long enough for my legs.)
Even though the fitting process was frustrating at times and I had some mishaps with hardware, I am glad I didn’t call it quits and kept going because I am absolutely totally in love with the finished product.
These jeans were made for PatternReview.com’s 2013 Jean Contest
pre-washed 100% cotton denim
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