Burda Style For people who sew

Fold the “front insert” in half.

Note: since the front insert folds in half, what I’m calling the lining is the half that folds to the inside of the swimsuit

Make 2 rows of gathering stitches, on each side, for both the insert and insert lining (you’ll need to make them separately as we don’t want to attach the insert and it’s lining at this point, for a neater finish). Start about 1 cm after the insert’s curve at the bottom, and stop about an inch from the top (i. e., the fold).

Now you will have 4 thread-tails at either end of the top front piece. Tie the bottom 4 in a knot to avoid losing your gathers. From the top 4 threads, grab the 2 bobbin threads and begin to pull away while gathering the fabric. Continue this until you have gathered the fabric all the way to the bottom knot.

Repeat on the other side.

Make sure the material has been gathered enough by placing the pattern piece insert on top. Continue gathering until the top is the same size as the pattern insert and pin – making sure that the gathers are evenly distributed.

Optional: Adding Bra Cups

Stitch the insert’s lining to the swimsuit’s body, lining’s right side against body’s wrong side. do not attach the insert’s outer side to the swimsuit now.
Try the suit on and pin the cups to the lining’s inside, where you need them to be (careful with those pins, ladies!).

You’ll be sewing the cups onto the inside of the lining (not directly against your skin). The cups will be hidden between the lining and the shell.

Adjust the gathers so that they are spread evenly over the cups. Stitch the cups to the lining’s inside, using a narrow zigzag stitch.

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