Alessandra Pants

Added Feb 23, 2009

By burdastyle

New York, New Yo...

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Views

27473

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Description

For our business suit variation, we used the Hikaru jacket and Anita jeans as our base patterns. We wanted to do something smart and fashion-forward, but versatile enough to get lots of action in one’s wardrobe, so we used different fabrics for the jacket and pant. We think the black buttons add a bold, classy statement while the collar detail gives a feminine touch. You will find instructions here how to adjust the Anita jeans pattern into the Alessandra variation, while you can find the Hikaru jacket variation here. Good luck!

Material Notes

Silk and wool blend

Difficulty

Advanced

Related Techniques

Categories

For
Women
Garment Type
Pants
Style
Business, Classic
Material
Silk, Suiting, Wool

Credits

Photographer
Stylist
Hair & Make-up
Model

25 Comments Sign in to add a post

  • 1014094_10152652215983709_1627797358_n_large

    Apr 21, 2010, 11.16 AMby mitmit

    I really love this suit! It’s feminine, but still practical. I don’t agree on the jacket being too small. I think this look is amazing on fx. tall, skinny girls. :-)

  • Missing

    Mar 3, 2009, 01.50 PMby entropy

    Thank you ParaNoire I will look for that written on the pattern pieces, right now I just measure everything, which is a bit intensive.

    I use http://www.cedesign.com/familyphotos/sewing/info/princessFBA/index.html and along with the Burda how-tos for fit.

    Debbie does a great animation of makign patterns larger in the bust area.

  • 243e706940e9ec6ee5590c8d3bfdfce316b1ac98_large

    Feb 27, 2009, 07.35 AMby amibambini

    Although not really my style, I think the jacket is quite cute and it’s good to learn how to adapt patterns, especially when there are SO MANY incredibly dorky patterns out there, and I am grateful for the free service of skill sharing that Burda provides in this respect.. and a quid or two for a good pattern I don’t really begrudge either as it’s way easier and more interesting to use this site than wade through the suburban blandness that… zzzzzzzz… excuse me, thinking of the patterns that reside in those big ol’ catalogues kinda sent me to sleep for a minute there.. Anyways, I’d really love to see a variation tutorial on a man’s jacket, in particular the Adam, as there is a serious lack of cool menswear patterns out there. My man needs a coat and he would definitely wear something like the Adam but with a different collar.

  • Eaeb302214c91232bb25af133e6fd0aa0813d32c_large

    Feb 27, 2009, 05.22 AMby lejonell

    Where can I get those shoes?!?

  • Af8b32e4792bd3138816ebc2432e50ed41f30478_large

    Feb 26, 2009, 02.05 AMby officebusybody

    I won’t comment about the fit because it’s all been said already, except to say that it could be the subject of another how-to – how-to alter princess seams to accommodate shoulder and bust size, which I think is a common fitting problem.

    I think the how-to’s are a good combination of basic and cosmetic alterations.

    It’s good that the jacket how-to covers essential alterations like raising the waistline and shortening sleeves, in easy to follow steps. It’s handy to know if you’re short-waisted or just plain short (and don’t you just love how clothes manufacturers assume that if you’re a plus-size, you must have really looong arms?).

    I think the instructions are clear enough that sewers who don’t know much about basic pattern alterations will feel more confident to try them.

  • 223e58ec190aead2945686fb1df52ea4442bad3a_large

    Feb 25, 2009, 02.42 PMby kora-bean

    Well, I guess I can see why many think the garment doesn’t fit, but I personally feel that this is partly due to the increasing trend towards super-fitted garments. I think that the de-emphasis on the waist and the straighter, less curvy silhouette give this jacket a “haut” look, especially with that awesome fabric.

  • 92fbd7d46b198b4ebb48ea36089e6ba966c44900_large

    Feb 25, 2009, 01.06 PMby paranoire

    @ Entropy

    Hi!

    You asked about the ease in burda patterns.

    Burdastyle always puts the finished bust and hip measurements on the pattern pieces somewhere, just substract that from the body measurements in the size chart and you’ve got your ease.

    It would be nicer if they explicitly stated the ease on every pattern, though. I would find it easier to mix and match different pieces of two deisgn, for example substitute sleeves, collars if I knew the ease that was used in drafting the pattern. It also would help in choosing the right size (some like their garments to fit snugly, others want more room).

  • Missing

    Feb 25, 2009, 12.48 PMby themisstress

    Sorry Burda, but i have to agree with the other coments. This suit simply doesn’t fit. It also doesn’t look very well made (bulging seams, flappy pocket on the trousers etc). I think, also, that the design is not suited t her shape at all. The high waist seam and the shortened sleaves just give the impresion of the whole jacket being too short for her, and the poor fit gives her saggy boobs and creases everywhere. This site was insperational when I first found it, but I have to agree the content from Burda has gone down hill lately. While I agree we must all learn our own fitting techniques, we can only do that from being shown the correct way. A how-to on adjusting this pattern to fit would be far more usefull than the alterations to the original pattern. Sorry, this one’s a miss for me, even though I like the style.

  • Missing

    Feb 25, 2009, 10.39 AMby entropy

    Kudos for working with a fabric that shows every flaw. The princess seam is hard to work with, as Burdastyle seems to draft for an AA or A cup, and the fitting issues really show up here!

    The tutorial found at: this site would help fix the fit problem in the jacket.

    Is there somewhere on the site for these patterns I can find out the ease that is built into the patterns? I’ve measured the patterns to see how they woudl fit my measurements, but I would like to know the ease designed into each pattern so that I can keep the design lines true.

    Thank you!!!

  • Hilda_bouma_pasfoto_large

    Feb 25, 2009, 02.12 AMby hcbouma

    I like the jacket variation. And I do think it fits the model, she has a funny way of rejection her shoulders and pushing her breasts forward on the third picture. She looks normal on the next two. Thanks Burdastyle, for showing this Hikaru variation in shiny fabric.

  • Missing

    Feb 24, 2009, 07.49 PMby klf

    I like the how-to’s, they’re free! And you could probably use any jeans and blazer patterns to get a similar look. The weekend designer website has instructions for drafting jeans. So if I ever learn that I can have perfectly fitting jeans AND perfectly fitting dress pants. I would like to know how to change that yoke thing on the back of jeans into the darts you usually see on dressier pants, though.

  • Ee8014d4ca996c57355c462f568cd1e7ab199fe2_large

    Feb 24, 2009, 06.14 PMby mirela

    Wonderful impersonations for both patterns! Waw?! I just read all the comments above…I think the pants fit nicely, they wouldn’t look to good on me, with the narrow legs but that can be easily changed. The jacket looks great to me, except for the same issue of being a little tight around the bust. ParaNoire, did you make any adjustments to your version of the jacket? It is to DIE for!

    A pattern a week was there for a while…I would still love to be able to download the patterns that were there for free. At least offer them for all your old faithful users that created the accounts before the charges and maybe also have a donate buttons somewhere so we can support the site. I don’t want to pay 4$ for a pattern when I already pay 70$ or was it 80$ lately for a subscription to the magazine…Eva and Hikaru I already have in the magazine….

  • 234da2be1ba722bc26fa4322b927c0ba584dfb54_large

    Feb 24, 2009, 03.21 PMby kiraph

    I like the sort of military feel of this jacket – very in right now. But it just looks wrong. I don’t know if it is the alterations or that it is the wrong size for the model? Is it just me or do the arm holes seem wrong as well – or is that also to do with the princess seam issue? While I agree that it is important to know how to alter patterns, I don’t think I will be making this particular suit just so that I can learn how to alter. I have no use for this particular outfit – I don’t work in an office so have no need of a suit. And my out of work hours clothes are a lot more relaxed in feel and style. I am really liking boho style at the moment. Good effort burdastyle, but not for me I’m afraid. Plus, I miss looking at a new pattern each week.

  • Dsc03784__b3_profile_large

    Feb 24, 2009, 12.49 PMby Laura Bolčina

    BurdaStyle, where is a NEW PATTERN every week, that you used to post (e.g. last year)…?

  • 92fbd7d46b198b4ebb48ea36089e6ba966c44900_large

    Feb 24, 2009, 12.15 PMby paranoire

    wow, I’m surprised by all the critical feedback. I support Benediktas opinion that it is very important to know how alterations work even if that’s not as comfortable as just printing a pattern and then start to sew.

    (although an entirely new pattern uploaded in near future would be great, too ;) Even more if it were more free patterns again – I really was surprised when I found out that Hikaru now costs 4,00 $ instead of zero when I downloaded it long time ago. I understand that burdastyle also needs to get some financial input and the prices are more than reasonable. But free patterns are always good for keeping users happy :D).

    But I also have my complaints about the Hikaru fit. The bust could get a bit more of a shape (it gives you weird wrinkles/tension on anyone with a bust! This can also be seen in the very first burdastyle-made Hikaru – even a slender, beautiful model looks like her boobs are dropping/too big for the jacket) – a bit more (round, boob-shaped) room would really help the garments fit. The waist on the other hand could have been more fitted (and post-cut alterations are very difficult/unsatisfying because of the one-piece peplums AND the excessive topstitching :)).

    Maybe we should get a how-to how you can properly adjust the pattern pieces (esp. the peplum pieces) to a smaller waist without just taking a few centimeters off the edges (which would be the beginners approach) – I will try and upload such a how-to if I find the time!

    I really like the collar variation – it really gives the jacket a couture touch! Don’t be so harsh on a basically beautiful jacket concept – it’s just the fit :)

    Best, Eva

    PS: Thank you a lot, elainemay :D

  • F73ae75c85bfa0c3044028abd57f1c9a2953cd72_large

    Feb 24, 2009, 07.41 AMby elainemay

    The fit of the pants looks ok to me- if I had long skinny legs like the model, I’d wear them :) The jacket style might be a little too mature for me, but it led me to surf the other Hikaru jackets on the site and now I really really want one (most notably Paranoire’s version- LOVE). Overall I think it’s a nice suit if you’ve got the body to pull it off. To term it a “business” suit seems a bit of a stretch though :)

  • 294526_10150293942747921_504102920_8023500_704867_n_large

    Feb 24, 2009, 07.27 AMby calicocouture

    The fit issues are in the princess seams. I’ve dealt with that issue way too many times making Irish dancing costumes. It’s too big above the bust, and in the hip area. The fabric color isn’t very forgiving, so it’s more obvious. That being said, I could see this variation in navy, or black with some nice shiny buttons. =)

  • Letterbicon_large

    Feb 24, 2009, 06.45 AMby burdastyle

    Hi Everybody, As important as having the tools to design, it is to know how to use them properly to create your own. Knowing how to make your own ideas out of basic patterns will leave you with endless possibilities and will make you independent of third parties designs. Our easy changes of patterns are teaching you what is possible on all different skill levels and will lead you to take the next step. Our how tos are suggestions for you to develop further until it fits your own ideas and design. Best, Benedikta

  • 526e154b1afd847a50daa7af1c056f47b5391707_large

    Feb 24, 2009, 05.12 AMby sunnyb64

    Though I’d have to test the fit of them to see if they’d work for me, I do like the concept of changing the Anita to trousers. Skinny jeans are not my thing at all, and for me at least I think they’d be much more flattering. Also liking the Hikaru variation— trying to decide if the feel of it is more mod 60s or sci-fi, but I like both so that’s ok!

  • 271b6230d7f4cd766994d54d0c1222933059364a_large

    Feb 24, 2009, 02.38 AMby ghainskom

    I had a look at the how-to ans saw that you raised the waistline on Hikaru. I think if one leaves that out, the jacket will look better.

  • 271b6230d7f4cd766994d54d0c1222933059364a_large

    Feb 24, 2009, 12.45 AMby ghainskom

    I agree with Poly that the suit doesn’t look good on the model. The only question is: is it that the fit doesn’t suit the model or is the fit a flaw of the pattern alterations? I’m not raving about this, that’s for sure… I like the gloves, though.

  • 2248651388_b7dff371cd_large

    Feb 23, 2009, 11.03 PMby victors

    disappointing. another how to.

  • Profilbild_mini_large

    Feb 23, 2009, 01.56 PMby polychromatin

    Well, nice variations, but the garments don’t look good on the model (she’s a beautiful girl, but if I were her, I wouldn’t wear this, terrible fit). And the variation on the Anita pattern I could’ve done by myself …

  • 582a6253ee37ede416e60e7fbe4b790fe96367ab_large

    Feb 23, 2009, 01.37 PMby kicchan

    Mm, I like the jacket the best. It’s very cute and stylish. :) Nice with soft, light-bouncing fabric.

  • Ea2edb6a404bcc432ab73c6c058d91e982ef9e48_large

    Feb 23, 2009, 01.30 PMby erdronen

    ooh- what a beautiful suit! i love it! very classy, yet modern :) this is the trouser pattern i have been waiting for :) can’t wait to make use of the how-to! great work!

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This project is based on

Burdastyle

http://burdastyle.com//projects/alessandra-pants