Burda Style For people who sew

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  Apr 21, 2010, 11.16 AMby mitmit

  I really love this suit! It’s feminine, but still practical. I don’t agree on the jacket being too small. I think this look is amazing on fx. tall, skinny girls. :-)
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  Mar 3, 2009, 01.50 PMby entropy

  Thank you ParaNoire I will look for that written on the pattern pieces, right now I just measure everything, which is a bit intensive.

  I use http://www.cedesign.com/familyphotos/sewing/info/princessFBA/index.html and along with the Burda how-tos for fit.

  Debbie does a great animation of makign patterns larger in the bust area.
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  Feb 27, 2009, 07.35 AMby amibambini

  Although not really my style, I think the jacket is quite cute and it’s good to learn how to adapt patterns, especially when there are SO MANY incredibly dorky patterns out there, and I am grateful for the free service of skill sharing that Burda provides in this respect.. and a quid or two for a good pattern I don’t really begrudge either as it’s way easier and more interesting to use this site than wade through the suburban blandness that… zzzzzzzz… excuse me, thinking of the patterns that reside in those big ol’ catalogues kinda sent me to sleep for a minute there.. Anyways, I’d really love to see a variation tutorial on a man’s jacket, in particular the Adam, as there is a serious lack of cool menswear patterns out there. My man needs a coat and he would definitely wear something like the Adam but with a different collar.
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  Feb 27, 2009, 05.22 AMby lejonell

  Where can I get those shoes?!?
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  Feb 26, 2009, 02.05 AMby officebusybody

  I won’t comment about the fit because it’s all been said already, except to say that it could be the subject of another how-to – how-to alter princess seams to accommodate shoulder and bust size, which I think is a common fitting problem.

  I think the how-to’s are a good combination of basic and cosmetic alterations.

  It’s good that the jacket how-to covers essential alterations like raising the waistline and shortening sleeves, in easy to follow steps. It’s handy to know if you’re short-waisted or just plain short (and don’t you just love how clothes manufacturers assume that if you’re a plus-size, you must have really looong arms?).

  I think the instructions are clear enough that sewers who don’t know much about basic pattern alterations will feel more confident to try them.
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  Feb 25, 2009, 02.42 PMby kora-bean

  Well, I guess I can see why many think the garment doesn’t fit, but I personally feel that this is partly due to the increasing trend towards super-fitted garments. I think that the de-emphasis on the waist and the straighter, less curvy silhouette give this jacket a “haut” look, especially with that awesome fabric.
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  Feb 25, 2009, 01.06 PMby paranoire

  @ Entropy

  Hi!

  You asked about the ease in burda patterns.

  Burdastyle always puts the finished bust and hip measurements on the pattern pieces somewhere, just substract that from the body measurements in the size chart and you’ve got your ease.

  It would be nicer if they explicitly stated the ease on every pattern, though. I would find it easier to mix and match different pieces of two deisgn, for example substitute sleeves, collars if I knew the ease that was used in drafting the pattern. It also would help in choosing the right size (some like their garments to fit snugly, others want more room).
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  Feb 25, 2009, 12.48 PMby themisstress

  Sorry Burda, but i have to agree with the other coments. This suit simply doesn’t fit. It also doesn’t look very well made (bulging seams, flappy pocket on the trousers etc). I think, also, that the design is not suited t her shape at all. The high waist seam and the shortened sleaves just give the impresion of the whole jacket being too short for her, and the poor fit gives her saggy boobs and creases everywhere. This site was insperational when I first found it, but I have to agree the content from Burda has gone down hill lately. While I agree we must all learn our own fitting techniques, we can only do that from being shown the correct way. A how-to on adjusting this pattern to fit would be far more usefull than the alterations to the original pattern. Sorry, this one’s a miss for me, even though I like the style.
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  Feb 25, 2009, 10.39 AMby entropy

  Kudos for working with a fabric that shows every flaw. The princess seam is hard to work with, as Burdastyle seems to draft for an AA or A cup, and the fitting issues really show up here!

  The tutorial found at: this site would help fix the fit problem in the jacket.

  Is there somewhere on the site for these patterns I can find out the ease that is built into the patterns? I’ve measured the patterns to see how they woudl fit my measurements, but I would like to know the ease designed into each pattern so that I can keep the design lines true.

  Thank you!!!
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  Feb 25, 2009, 02.12 AMby hcbouma

  I like the jacket variation. And I do think it fits the model, she has a funny way of rejection her shoulders and pushing her breasts forward on the third picture. She looks normal on the next two. Thanks Burdastyle, for showing this Hikaru variation in shiny fabric.
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  Feb 24, 2009, 07.49 PMby klf

  I like the how-to’s, they’re free! And you could probably use any jeans and blazer patterns to get a similar look. The weekend designer website has instructions for drafting jeans. So if I ever learn that I can have perfectly fitting jeans AND perfectly fitting dress pants. I would like to know how to change that yoke thing on the back of jeans into the darts you usually see on dressier pants, though.
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  Feb 24, 2009, 06.14 PMby mirela

  Wonderful impersonations for both patterns! Waw?! I just read all the comments above…I think the pants fit nicely, they wouldn’t look to good on me, with the narrow legs but that can be easily changed. The jacket looks great to me, except for the same issue of being a little tight around the bust. ParaNoire, did you make any adjustments to your version of the jacket? It is to DIE for!

  A pattern a week was there for a while…I would still love to be able to download the patterns that were there for free. At least offer them for all your old faithful users that created the accounts before the charges and maybe also have a donate buttons somewhere so we can support the site. I don’t want to pay 4$ for a pattern when I already pay 70$ or was it 80$ lately for a subscription to the magazine…Eva and Hikaru I already have in the magazine….
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  Feb 24, 2009, 03.21 PMby kiraph

  I like the sort of military feel of this jacket – very in right now. But it just looks wrong. I don’t know if it is the alterations or that it is the wrong size for the model? Is it just me or do the arm holes seem wrong as well – or is that also to do with the princess seam issue? While I agree that it is important to know how to alter patterns, I don’t think I will be making this particular suit just so that I can learn how to alter. I have no use for this particular outfit – I don’t work in an office so have no need of a suit. And my out of work hours clothes are a lot more relaxed in feel and style. I am really liking boho style at the moment. Good effort burdastyle, but not for me I’m afraid. Plus, I miss looking at a new pattern each week.
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  Feb 24, 2009, 12.49 PMby Laura Bolčina

  BurdaStyle, where is a NEW PATTERN every week, that you used to post (e.g. last year)…?
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  Feb 24, 2009, 12.15 PMby paranoire

  wow, I’m surprised by all the critical feedback. I support Benediktas opinion that it is very important to know how alterations work even if that’s not as comfortable as just printing a pattern and then start to sew.

  (although an entirely new pattern uploaded in near future would be great, too ;) Even more if it were more free patterns again – I really was surprised when I found out that Hikaru now costs 4,00 $ instead of zero when I downloaded it long time ago. I understand that burdastyle also needs to get some financial input and the prices are more than reasonable. But free patterns are always good for keeping users happy :D).

  But I also have my complaints about the Hikaru fit. The bust could get a bit more of a shape (it gives you weird wrinkles/tension on anyone with a bust! This can also be seen in the very first burdastyle-made Hikaru – even a slender, beautiful model looks like her boobs are dropping/too big for the jacket) – a bit more (round, boob-shaped) room would really help the garments fit. The waist on the other hand could have been more fitted (and post-cut alterations are very difficult/unsatisfying because of the one-piece peplums AND the excessive topstitching :)).

  Maybe we should get a how-to how you can properly adjust the pattern pieces (esp. the peplum pieces) to a smaller waist without just taking a few centimeters off the edges (which would be the beginners approach) – I will try and upload such a how-to if I find the time!

  I really like the collar variation – it really gives the jacket a couture touch! Don’t be so harsh on a basically beautiful jacket concept – it’s just the fit :)

  Best, Eva

  PS: Thank you a lot, elainemay :D
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  Feb 24, 2009, 07.41 AMby elainemay

  The fit of the pants looks ok to me- if I had long skinny legs like the model, I’d wear them :) The jacket style might be a little too mature for me, but it led me to surf the other Hikaru jackets on the site and now I really really want one (most notably Paranoire’s version- LOVE). Overall I think it’s a nice suit if you’ve got the body to pull it off. To term it a “business” suit seems a bit of a stretch though :)
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  Feb 24, 2009, 07.27 AMby calicocouture

  The fit issues are in the princess seams. I’ve dealt with that issue way too many times making Irish dancing costumes. It’s too big above the bust, and in the hip area. The fabric color isn’t very forgiving, so it’s more obvious. That being said, I could see this variation in navy, or black with some nice shiny buttons. =)
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  Feb 24, 2009, 06.45 AMby burdastyle

  Hi Everybody, As important as having the tools to design, it is to know how to use them properly to create your own. Knowing how to make your own ideas out of basic patterns will leave you with endless possibilities and will make you independent of third parties designs. Our easy changes of patterns are teaching you what is possible on all different skill levels and will lead you to take the next step. Our how tos are suggestions for you to develop further until it fits your own ideas and design. Best, Benedikta
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  Feb 24, 2009, 05.12 AMby sunnyb64

  Though I’d have to test the fit of them to see if they’d work for me, I do like the concept of changing the Anita to trousers. Skinny jeans are not my thing at all, and for me at least I think they’d be much more flattering. Also liking the Hikaru variation— trying to decide if the feel of it is more mod 60s or sci-fi, but I like both so that’s ok!
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  Feb 24, 2009, 02.38 AMby ghainskom

  I had a look at the how-to ans saw that you raised the waistline on Hikaru. I think if one leaves that out, the jacket will look better.
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  Feb 24, 2009, 12.45 AMby ghainskom

  I agree with Poly that the suit doesn’t look good on the model. The only question is: is it that the fit doesn’t suit the model or is the fit a flaw of the pattern alterations? I’m not raving about this, that’s for sure… I like the gloves, though.
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  Feb 23, 2009, 11.03 PMby victors

  disappointing. another how to.
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  Feb 23, 2009, 01.56 PMby polychromatin

  Well, nice variations, but the garments don’t look good on the model (she’s a beautiful girl, but if I were her, I wouldn’t wear this, terrible fit). And the variation on the Anita pattern I could’ve done by myself …
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  Feb 23, 2009, 01.37 PMby kicchan

  Mm, I like the jacket the best. It’s very cute and stylish. :) Nice with soft, light-bouncing fabric.
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  Feb 23, 2009, 01.30 PMby erdronen

  ooh- what a beautiful suit! i love it! very classy, yet modern :) this is the trouser pattern i have been waiting for :) can’t wait to make use of the how-to! great work!