Burda Style For people who sew

HEMLINE
Apply the front facing.

Neaten the hemline and turn inside, press. Sew the hemline by hand. Turn the facings inside (a).

SLEEVE PLACKET
Position a fabric and lining placket, each, together; right sides facing. Pin the edges together and stitch. Trim allowances, snip in. turn the sleeve placket and press. Pin the open edges together (b).

Pin the wrong side (lining side) of the placket on the right side of the front sleeve (seam 8). The fold lines of the sleeve hemline meet. Stitch the sleeve plackets on the hemline of the sleeve ©.

SLEEVE
Position the back of the sleeve on the front piece, right sides facing. Pin the seam line (seam 6) and stitch. Press allowances inside the sleeve. Topstitch the sleeve seams _“ (1 cm) wide.
Double stitch the sleeve cap from * to * narrowly, using basting stitches. Fold the sleeve lengthwise, stitch the bottom sleeve seam (seam 7) enclosing the sleeve placket. Press allowances apart (d).

Fold the HEMLINE of the sleeve and pin, press. Stitch the hemline (e).

APPLY SLEEVES
To ease the width of the sleeve cap, give a basting stitch at the seam line and tighten the bobbin threads.

Apply the sleeve cap to the armhole, right sides facing. When applying, 4 points are important for the right “fit”: the cross lines 9 of the front part of the sleeve and the front piece have to meet. The inner sleeve seam has to meet the side seam. The cross line of the sleeve cap has to meet the shoulder seam. The eased width has to be distributed in a way that does not pucker or create pleats. Pin the sleeve on the sleeve side and stitch. Press allowances inside the sleeve (f).

Apply the SHOULDER PADS. Stitch the shoulder pads on the allowances of shoulder seam and armhole seam.

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