Added Feb 12, 2012
Lay the back pieces right sides together, line up, pin and stitch the centre back seam. Press seam allowances open and bind edges with bias tape. To bind seam edges: Cut the pre-pressed bias tape in half along the centre so it is now 1 cm (3/8 in) wide when folded double. Unfold the bias tape. Pin to edge of seam allowance and stitch 5 mm (3/16 in) from edge. Then fold bias tape over edge and pin in place, without turning in. Work from right side to topstitch the bias tape close to joining seam.
Fold sleeve tabs on fold line, with right side facing in. Stitch long edges together. Turn tabs right side out. Press edges. Baste tabs to sleeve backs, between markings.
On back the pieces, cut darts along centre, between marked lines, approx. 10 cm (4 ins) long. Stitch lower sleeve pieces right sides together with integrated side sections of back, from seam number 1 to marking. Clip seam allowances of sides at the marking. Then stitch sleeve pieces to sides, from marking to dart line (seam number 2). Trim the seam allowances of joining seam to 1 cm (3/8 in) wide, press toward sides, and baste.
Stitch lower sleeves to integrated back sleeves, from seam number 3. Match marking of back to joining seam of lower sleeve pieces. Clip the seam allowance of back at marking. Stitch darts. Press seam allowances toward integrated sleeves and press darts toward centre. Bind seam allowances and bind dart allowances, approx. 10 cm (4 ins) long.
For the belt loops, cut the cord into two equal pieces. Pin belt carriers to section seam line of fronts, be tween markings.
Stitch lower sleeve pieces to integrated front sleeves, from seam number 4, then stitch integrated back side pieces to fronts. Clip the seam allowances of the fronts into corners and do not stitch across the pocket openings in the section seams.
Pin the pocket pieces right sides together with the seam allowances of the pocket opening edges, pocket lining pieces in front and pocket pieces of main fabric in back. Stitch pocket pieces in place, close to side seam and along the seam line at the pocket opening edge. Press pocket pieces forward and stitch together. Baste upper pocket edges in place.
Do not baste upper pocket edges in place. Bind the pocket pieces with bias tape. Press the seam allowances of the section seams toward fronts and integrated sleeves. Bind allowances.
On the lower edge of the jacket, fold pleats over front section seams, so that fold edges meets placement lines. Baste folds to lower edge. Press fold edges, up to upper end of pocket openings.
Shoulder and sleeve seams
Stitch the shoulder seams (seam number 5) and top sleeve seams as continuous seams. Press the seam allowances towards the back and bind the allowances.
Bind the edge of the hem allowances on the sleeves. Press the sleeve hem allowances to the inside and sew in place by hand.
Hem band, facing and finishes
Stitch side seams on hem band pieces. Press seam allowances open. Stitch outer hem band unit to lower edge of jacket. Press the seam allowances up.
Stitch shoulder seams of facing. Bind inside facing edge. Stitch lower edges of front facings to inner hem band unit. Clip seam allowance of hem band 3 cm (1 1/4 ins) from inside edge of facing. Toward front edge, press seam allowances open. Pin facing right sides together with jacket and pin hem band edges together. Stitch along lower hem band edge, and along front and neck edges. Trim seam allowances, trimming corners diagonally. Turn facing and inside hem band to inside and press edges. Lay the inside hem band edge flat over join ing seam, not turning edge under. Stitch seam allowances together close to joining seam, stitching as far as possible on front edges. Bind allowances of hem band joining seam. Sew inside facing edge to seams.
Cover snap fastener pieces with lining fabric. Sew top halves of snaps to right front facing as marked, not exiting needle on right side of fabric. Sew bottom halves of snaps to left front to match.
On belt pieces with no interfacing, round off corners slightly. Cut two pieces of hook and loop tape, each 5.5 cm (2 1/4 ins) long. Lay the loop sides of the tape next to each other and stitch to leather side of interfaced right belt piece (inside piece), 2 cm (3/4 in) from narrow front edge, in lengthwise direction. Measure and mark 46-50-54-58-62 cm (18 1/8-19 3/4-21 1/4-23-24 1/2 ins) on elastic. Lay the belt pieces with no interfacing on the ends of the elastic and edge stitch in place. Lay the belt pieces with no interfacing on the interfaced belt pieces and glue in place with glue stick. Stitch one hook piece of the hook and loop tape (the other hook piece can be discarded) widthwise to top side of left belt piece, 1 cm (3/8 in) from front edge. Stitch the belt pieces together along all edges. Trim away extending seam allowances.
Behind the seams with Marina von Koenig Part 2
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