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31 December

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  Dec 31, 2012, 06.27 PMby bjr99

  Just got back from the Christmas holidays and saw your status post on Basement Sewing. I think the only thing worse than basement sewing is ripping out basement sewing without tearing it!!

  Have a Happy New Year!

  1 Reply

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    Jan 2, 2013, 09.05 PMby katexxxxxx

    I have to say that it is turning out rather well!

    Hope you too have a great 2013.

6 October

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  Oct 6, 2012, 08.53 AMby lindsay-l

  Hi there,

  I seen a post from a couple years ago and see you have a lot of experience with nylon, lycra and other stretch fabrics. I want to start making my own leggings and was wondering what would be the best overlocker machine to get for this? Do you think it’s just as good to use an at home machine as using an industrial? If so, what at home overlockers would you recommend for a quality end product? (preferably 4 thread)

  Thank you! Lindsay

  1 Reply

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    Oct 6, 2012, 09.05 AMby katexxxxxx

    Home machines are far more versatile than industrials, which tend to do one thing only. If you are only making your own rather than intending to run a production line, a home machine will be much better. Once you have one, you will find a lot more ue for it than just making leggings! :)

    The big drawback with an industrial in a home setting is the size of the table: they tend to be sold as a head only, and you need to buy the motor separately, plus special serger a table to mount them in. A domestic machine is a table top machine and can be put away if you need to. I have one of mine in a Horn cabinet, but as I work as a dressmaker and have a partner here most days, we tend to have it permanently set up. along with at least two other machines!

    At present I run two: a Brother 1034D and a Bernina 1150MDA. They are both 4 thread machines. The Bernina was more than twice the price of the Brother, and side by side on the bench you can tell where the extra money went: it’s faster, quieter, smoother, will do 2 thread stitching, and is slightly easier to thread.

    For a serger newbie, the Brother is a great machine, though. Tough, easy to operate, and does a really nice stitch. If you have the money, the Bernina is lovely, but it is expensive.

    The best thing to do is go and try a few, and see which you are comfortable with.

2 October

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  Oct 2, 2012, 12.22 AMby NeederMoo

  I love all of your costumes! I would love to have those. Can’t wait to see more things you make! :D

  1 Reply

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    Oct 2, 2012, 05.55 AMby katexxxxxx

    Thank you.

    Some are for sale in our Etsy shop: http://www.etsy.com/shop/Jollydiceycostume

11 July

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  Jul 11, 2012, 10.35 PMby leashbean

  That was what I was thinking were my options. I would prefer to have as little visible seaming as possible, but I do know that the lace is expensive. Maybe a good compromise would be to have visible seaming on the side seams but to do this overlapping stitch method for the front seams. Thanks for your imput yet again! happy project sewing!

10 July

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  Jul 10, 2012, 10.39 PMby leashbean

  Hey Kate. its me again! please let me know if my questions are annoying for you.

  I am making a wedding gown with an overlay of lace fabric. the pattern I made has to seams running down the front and I know that I do not wish to have these lines in the lace. Is their a way to avoid these seams on the lace overlay? Can i cut out and sew the skirt front underlining, and then tcut out the entire skirt front as one from the lace? some places also state to use the lace and the underlay as one piece while sewing, I would think it would look nicer if these were free flowing from eachother. is there a reason people recommend this way? is it because there is also a separate lining as well?

  so many questions!

  thanks again.

  1 Reply

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    Jul 11, 2012, 09.33 AMby katexxxxxx

    No problem! I’m just madly busy with work and home projects at the moment…

    Now, lace… There are two main ways to tackle this. For the sake of it I am going to assume that there is a scalloped edge to the lace and you want this along the hem of the gown. And that the skirt sections are made up from gore sections rather than rectangles.

    The first way is just to cut the scalloped edge off the lace, very carefully, along the edges of the motifs. Then just cut the skirt pieces as if the lace was plain. You then make up the skirt, with the seams, and sew the scalloped edge along the bottom… This will leave you with seams that will show a bit down the lace…

    The next way you do much the same, except that for the FRONT section, down the seam line you cut round the edges of the lace motifs OUTSIDE the pattern pieces. You then lay these pieces OVER the seam lines on the side sections, and stitch round the edges. Do the same for the center back sections… Then reattach the border.

    For this second method particularly, you need a LOT of lace! You really need to plan the layout of the pieces before you order the lace. You have to cut all the pieces the same way up on the pattern, and you end up ‘wasting’ a lot of triangular sections up the sides of the skirt panels, and joining panels to get sections wide enough at the hem… It’s a right ole skiddle! For it to look good there’s either a hall of a lot of slow hand stitching or a lot of VERY SKILLED and careful machine work joining the lace invisibly.

    If you have a hunt through some of the past discussions on using lace and making wedding gowns, I know there are recommendations for several good books that should also help.

27 June

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  Jun 27, 2012, 07.05 PMby leashbean

  Hey Kate!

  I have a question for you! ( or should I say another question….) I have some fabric that is a cotton twill with a one way stretch. I am looking to make a full gathered skirt with the front and back on the fold. I have noticed that right on the crease of the fabric there is a bit of miscolouring and i can see a lighter line. Obviously i do not want that on the centre of my skirt. Is the only option to have a seam down the centre front and back? (the back I do not care as much, but the front i feel as though it could look weird?)

  is there any other options? I would be too afraid to cut with the stretch falling vertically as it might get really wonky…

  1 Reply

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    Jun 27, 2012, 10.32 PMby katexxxxxx

    I really think the seam is your best option. Try making a feature of it, like using a fly front and zip…

30 May

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  May 30, 2012, 11.21 PMby LittleMuse-ess

  I’d thought I’d ask you to check out my someone-help me pages since you really seem to know what you are doing and give good advice, and thought maybe you could help me out, too? here’s the links. linktext linktext thanks in advance!

18 March

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  Mar 18, 2012, 10.59 AMby sewingfan1

  re Larping, I did a day of medieval jousting once and sword play which I loved. I’ve always fancied the idea of making myself a medieval dress, that’s partly why I started learning to sew and I still haven’t got around to making one!! (I guess as I wouldn’t really have anywhere to wear it) so when I heard about larping it’s getting me inspired again :-)

14 March

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  Mar 14, 2012, 03.19 PMby tanuyadav

  no worry ,i was just reminding you ,in case you have forgotten ;)

  I am working on my side but in vain:(

  Thanks!!

29 January

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  Jan 29, 2012, 01.31 PMby patti-r

  Hi Kate,

  Hoping all is well with you and family. Could you help this member again. I have bronchitis, thinking and moving very slowly.

  http://www.burdastyle.com/discussions/skill-tank/topics/insert-in-ball-dress-to-increase-size-by-4—2

  Thank you,

  Patti

9 December

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  Dec 9, 2011, 12.08 AMby patti-r

  Kate, On this birthday I wish you a joyful ride 365 days long, filled with fun and frolic. Wish you many happy returns of the day.

  Big Hugs, Patti

  1 Reply

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    Dec 9, 2011, 09.04 AMby katexxxxxx

    Thank you. :)

8 December

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  Dec 8, 2011, 08.42 PMby katensew

  Thanks Kate – looks ideal BUT when I press " print at Home " nothing happens !! Never mind I have found a waistcoat pattern that I drafted for my husband so I shall alter that. ( it had a straight bottom edge instead of pointed – if that makes sense ? )

7 December

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  Dec 7, 2011, 03.29 PMby patti-r

  That so funny LOL, but so true.
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  Dec 7, 2011, 02.34 AMby patti-r

  Yes still miss mine too, guess when they are great people you have more happy memories.

  This hopefully will make you smile.

  Took my mother to doctor she looked a book then said I think Ru Paul is much better looking than him. I took a look at the book it was Sports Illustrated and it was Serena Williams the Tennis star. Never said a would to my mother, that Serena was not a female impersonator , but every time see Serena or a Sports Illustrated Mag, I smile from ear to ear…..

  1 Reply

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    Dec 7, 2011, 02.54 PMby katexxxxxx

    They do come out with classic shots at times, don’t they.

    I asked mine, when the then cherub – now Giant Mutant Ninja Teenager, was being particularly ornery how long it took to civilize a baby. Oh, says Mum, about 25 years!

    That still cracks me up!

6 December

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  Dec 6, 2011, 06.07 PMby patti-r

  Kate, So Sorry for your loss.

  No matter how old we are, losing a mother is one of the deepest sorrows a heart can know. But her goodness, her caring and her wisdom live on, like a legacy of love that will always be with you. With deepest sympathy.

  Hugs, Patti

  1 Reply

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    Dec 6, 2011, 11.26 PMby katexxxxxx

    Thank you. It’s almost a year, but still we miss her.

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  Dec 6, 2011, 04.01 PMby katensew

  Hi there Kate – i know that you are a fountain of knowledge regarding all things sewing !! Can you direct me to a site for a free gents waistcoat pattern ( approx. chest38/ 40 ) I tend to make them up on the person but want to make one as a surprise, so I can’t use the old newspaper round the body trick !! Many thanks Kath

  1 Reply

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    Dec 6, 2011, 05.17 PMby katexxxxxx

    Here’s one… You may have to alter the size: http://www.burdastyle.com/patterns/antony-vest

    Another… http://www.ralphpink.com/pattern-cutting/menswear/waistcoats

    Not free, but quite cheap: http://www.burdastyle.com/patterns/jason

20 November

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  Nov 20, 2011, 01.27 AMby nessys

  Oh Kate! You funny girl! Enjoy those pies Honey! xxx

  1 Reply

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    Nov 21, 2011, 01.01 AMby katexxxxxx

    And 10 Christmas puddings and 4 Christmas Cakes, and my own marzipan, and 4 jars of beetroot chutney and some cranberry sauce, and several jars of emergency tomato chutney (the tomatoes were starting to grow beards, so it was rescue them for chutney or bin them! I trimmed off the squashy bits and made chutney!).

    I freely admit to being bonkers. But tomorrow I’ll be sane and do some sewing. (She says, after she and her other half drove a 500 mile round trip to buy a used car!)

18 November

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  Nov 18, 2011, 06.25 PMby katexxxxxx

  Rhetorical. I always end up doing this sort of thing…

15 November

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  Nov 15, 2011, 04.02 PMby artepart

  Hi Kate, Ribbons,lace,fabrics,sewingtools,knitting wool,dresspatterns,DIY books,sewingbooks and other things like wiggs,buttons and some vintage stuff.It’s first the sorting out,taking the pictures and then it goes on my Etsy site.You will find me under the name Artepart on Etsy.The whole process will take about 3 weeks,I’m working also fulltime next to my sewing but I will let you know when the first lot is on. Happy sewing and really nice from you to hear, Petra,ArtepArt.

  1 Reply

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    Nov 15, 2011, 10.33 PMby katexxxxxx

    Thanks. :)

14 August

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  Aug 14, 2011, 02.09 AMby BritJ

  Your creations are absolutely delightful!!

  1 Reply

  • 

    Aug 14, 2011, 09.55 AMby katexxxxxx

    Thank you. :)

3 August

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  Aug 3, 2011, 01.02 PMby bjr99

  Hi Kate,

  Thanks for getting back to me.

  I did speak to the folks at Dharma about dip dyeing. Given the quantity of fabric that I had to dye and that it was different types of fabric, they recommended that I not do it. I have to agree since I do not have the facilities to do the quantity of fabric needed. So not only did Dharma loose the sale of the dye but also the sale of the fabric to be dyed. This is a good company in my book and I would buy from them in the future.

  As for the project, we have shifted gears. Rather than dyeing the fabric we will be using 2 layers of silk chiffon, pink and lavender, to get a similar effect. Much simpler and faster. Given that the due date is Sept. 9 this seems to be the best way to go.

  Thanks again for your input. Hope your summer is going great.

  Becky

1 August

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  Aug 1, 2011, 10.58 PMby sierrat2011

  Hey Kate.

  I’ve seen your comments around the site so I see that you know what you are doing when it comes to sewing and I thought you would be a good person to help me with this.

  I’ve been attempting to make a glitz style pageant dress. I think I can acheive the style of skirt and the dress itself but I have no confidence at all in the beading. Can you offer me any tips or advice on beading. If you could even refer me to any sites, that would be fine.

  1 Reply

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    Aug 2, 2011, 10.47 PMby katexxxxxx

    Take a look at what Kenneth King says about beading: hes the beading king! ;)

    What you need to read is his book Designer Bead Embroidery.

27 July

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  Jul 27, 2011, 01.55 PMby bjr99

  Hi Kate,

  I have posted this in the help section but I wanted to post it personally with you to be sure that you would receive this. I have also sent this to 2 other sewers as well who are also quite talented. I hope you can help me.

  I have a last minute job making 3 ballet costumes due Sept.9. The construction is not a problem. The problem is one of fabric for 2 of the costumes.

  The client wants the woman’s costume to be a sleeveless leotard with a silk chiffon and silk crepe de chine skirt. The man will be in tights and a silk shirt. Here is where the problem starts. She wants the costumes to go gradually from white to green. The original designer,( moved and couldn’t finish the project) had planned on dyeing the white silks to achieve this effect.

  I have never had any need to dye fabric other than tie dye tee shirts and certainly not graduated. So the first question is have you ever died silk and if so is it hard to do? Also, do you have any sources for dyes, materials and how to information? The original designer has specked Dharma Trading Co. for dyes and materials. Have you ever used them and would you recommend them? I also need tips on how to do graduated dying and how to achieve this effect.

  I am also looking at costume companies and fabrics on line to possibly purchase these 2 costumes or the fabric for them. Do you know of any companies that would have something like this? I have resources of my own but am not seeing what I need from them.

  All companies would need to be in the US since I have a tight budget as well as a tight time frame.

  Thank you in advance for any information or help you can give me.

  Becky

  1 Reply

  • 

    Aug 2, 2011, 10.40 PMby katexxxxxx

    Sounds like what you need to do is dip-dye them… You need special silk dye for this. Take a hike round the Dharma Trading website and ask their advice for the best dye to use.

    Dip or ombre dying means that you dampen the whole skirt and then dip the edge i the dye and let is bleed up the fabric. It gets paler as you go up the fabric… You can also do more than one colour!

    Try this video: http://youtu.be/SBN3hDIz88Y Two colour ombre dying.

    Sorry I couldn’t answer before: I’ve been away.

23 July

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  Jul 23, 2011, 01.43 PMby Floooo

  Hi, Whow I just read your coment and it was so beautiful thank you so mucht it’s so cool to hear these things of people who are doing this for so long time. Very inspirational. Thanks. Floooo

22 July

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  Jul 22, 2011, 07.31 PMby Anne Wagenhauser

  Hi Kate. Thanks for your kind offer to take my abnormal Bernina overlocker off my hands! ;p I have just got it back from a service, and while it was gone I ordered an instruction manual – I figured it may come in handy. :D I am determined to “fiddle” now, so I am sorry, it isn’t available! Thanks for putting me back on the straight and narrow! haha. Anne x

  1 Reply

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    Jul 22, 2011, 09.08 PMby katexxxxxx

    Hey, it’s always worth a try! ;)

    Have to say I LOVE my Bernina 1150MDA.

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  Jul 22, 2011, 07.31 PMby Anne Wagenhauser

  Hi Kate. Thanks for your kind offer to take my abnormal Bernina overlocker off my hands! ;p I have just got it back from a service, and while it was gone I ordered an instruction manual – I figured it may come in handy. :D I am determined to “fiddle” now, so I am sorry, it isn’t available! Thanks for putting me back on the straight and narrow! haha. Anne x

18 July

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  Jul 18, 2011, 09.59 AMby nessys

  Dear Kate – I know you are super busy but may I tap into your wealth of experience? I am making bridesmaid dresses (as per my earlier message). I made a muslin – made necessary adjustments to necklines so it didn’t gape. Made dress in up horrible satin fabric (stay stitched neck) – fitted them – fine no gape. I attached lining to the neck (lining also stay stitched). I used fusible interfacing around the neck to give some “body” – I fused to lining so no bubble on satin (I’ve done this before and it worked well). Understitched. Now latest fitting the neck gapes like no body’s business. I am ready to cry! What should I do? I’ve unpicked one dress at the neckline and removed the fusible interfacing (which I suspect might be to blame as it may be too stiff). What else could I do to rectify this problem? So sorry to bug you. Now I’m going to find a small corner in which to just cry…….. Any suggestions greatly appreciated. Thanks xx

  3 Replies

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    Jul 18, 2011, 03.05 PMby katexxxxxx

    Ooer! (Passes handful of tissues, mug of tea, & choklit bikkits).

    Right: you have learned Lesson One: Do Not use fusibles with poly satin!

    OK, now VERY CAREFULLY lay your fabric backs and fronts back on the pattern. Draw up those stay-stitching threads until the stitching line is the same length as the seam line on the pattern (you may need to draw it in).

    Once you have done that, from the INSIDE of the garment, steam that seamline, but don’t touch the fabric with the sole plate of the iron! Hold it about a millimeter above. Once back to size, BASTE by hand, check the gaposis again, and don’t sew until it’s right.

    If it won’t go back, you may have to recut the front sections.

    Sewing have gorn bonkers here, and I just had to take a borked machine in for fixing. That’ll be £200 down the pan!

  • 

    Jul 18, 2011, 10.40 PMby nessys

    Thanks for the tea, tissues and choc bickies Darl!;;I thought I would be OK with the fusible since it was only fused on the lining – not the actual darn poly satin. You are such a love to reply with such detailed info. I will do my best to follow it to a T!

    PS so sorry to hear about your poor machine! Borked is NOT good! xxxx

  • 

    Jul 30, 2011, 02.52 AMby nessys

    Worked a treat Darl! Thanks so very much. No more tears!!! As God as my witness – I will never use fusible interfacing again xxx

20 June

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  Jun 20, 2011, 10.14 AMby nessys

  Hiya Kate – saw your current status and had to laugh! You poor thing. I myself am sewing bridesmaid’s frocks and although I am sure you could sew them in your sleep, they are my first real outing of “important mass sewing for pay”. I am drowning in an awful sea of purple “satin” that is the worse fabric I have ever sewn with! All the best for your Petticoats of Doom! LOL!! xxxx

  PS Hope your boy is doing well x

  2 Replies

  • 

    Jun 20, 2011, 11.46 AMby katexxxxxx

    One is the last minute rush for a Tinkerbelle sized one! UK size six on a fat day… Had to recut the center front pannel of the bustier top, so will need to bejewel that all over again…

    And the hems of skirt and petti need doing.

    The other is a whole new one. I cut the gown this morning and will fling it together this pm for fitting at 5-ish!

    Delivery for both is Thursday pm. Prom is Thursday night.

  • 

    Jun 20, 2011, 11.43 PMby nessys

    I am in awe of you! You are incredible!

15 June

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  Jun 15, 2011, 04.01 PMby dorie

  WHAT DO YOU USE TIN SNIPS FOR IN SEWING?? PLEASE EXPLAIN WHAT YOU USE YOUR UNUSUAL SEWING TOOL FOR. THANKS DORIE

  1 Reply

  • 

    Jun 15, 2011, 11.04 PMby katexxxxxx

    Cutting flat steel boning for corsets and stays. :D

14 June

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  Jun 14, 2011, 05.04 PMby leashbean

  hey kate, i hope you don’t mind me messaging you with some more questions. I am making a dress made from a stretch fabric, and just got to thinking about the lining. The dress is VERY fitting at the bust and waist, and fits perfect now because of the stretch quality. I am nervous that when i put the lining in that the fit will be limited because of the stretch, is there some way i can work around this? should i just use the same fabric as the dress for lining? any suggestions?

  1 Reply

  • 

    Jun 14, 2011, 10.48 PMby katexxxxxx

    Yes, self line if it’s a lighter fabric. If you think this will make it too solid, try some powernet, like swimsuit lining.

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