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Sew an All-In-One Facing (5942 Views)
Ever wonder how to finish the raw edges of the neckline and armholes on a dress with an all-in-one facing? Here's how!
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Step 1 of 11
Many sleeveless dresses and tops with facings present sewers with an interesting problem. It can seem almost impossible to cleanly finish both the armholes and the necklines while sewing the shoulders in place as well. It is especially tough to do this if you want to finish something without any hand-sewing. Which is why I have decided to share with you all a way to sew an all-in-one facing, and have illustrated with my version of the Azalea dress. The Azalea dress presents an even more interesting problem, with its side zip as opposed to a center back zip. To begin, notice that I have sewn the body and bodice of the dress together and sewn the facing pieces at the right side seam (Right when worn. The left side of both the dress and the facing are left open to later insert the invisible zipper.
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Step 2 of 11
Sew the facing side seam. Press flat.
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Step 3 of 11
Place facing onto bodice and pin edges together, making sure seams and notches match up. Sew along these seams, but leave 2" open at the top of the side, neckline, and armhole openings (Sew as shown in the pink line.)
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Step 4 of 11
Trim and clip the edges to but not through the stitches you have just sewn to reduce bulk.
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Step 5 of 11
Understitch the facing to the bodice, catching the seam allowances underneath. This will help keep the facing down when the garment is complete. This is much like the ditch stitch. Fold the garment so right sides are on top of each other, but the facings are still turned out. Turn the front shoulders right side out. Pull the right front shoulder through the right back shoulder as shown above, with right sides touching, without twisting or rotating the straps.
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Step 6 of 11
Pull through as much as possible, turning the front strap inside out as you pull it through. Sew the shoulder seams.
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Step 7 of 11
After sewing the shoulder seam, it should look like this.
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Step 8 of 11
Sew the rest of the seams that you had earlier left open. This is easier if you pull the front strap all the way through the back strap, until to the point where the stitches end. Also, be careful not to catch any of bulk from the part of the strap that is not pulled through.
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Step 9 of 11
Trim and clip the excess.
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Step 10 of 11
Press flat. Repeat for other strap.
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Step 11 of 11
When you are done, you can continue with sewing in the zipper and then attaching the facing to either the lining or closing it onto the bodice. Voila!- clean, finished armholes and necklines, with NO HAND SEWING!
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COMMENTS (10)
marvelous! I love it!
Oh thank you! This is great!
Could this method be applied for a halter with facing, just like for the shoulder seam, around the neck line in the back? I struggle with that seam always!
I really love this technique. Your "How to's" really make me want to sew more. Your how on dolman (kimono sleeve) has inspired me to make my own patterns. I never really tried until I saw the How to.
Very helpful. Thanks for sharing this.
Thanks so much! You have no idea how happy it makes me to see that my How Tos are actually helping other members! :) :) :) I'm beaming....
Mirela-- I'm sure you can do this for a halter top, its just like doing one strap instead of two. Can't wait to see your halter!
Thank you so much for these step by step instructions, this is the one thing i have always had a hard time sewing, and you have made it so easy to understand and do. Your my hero at the moment :) Have a great day xxx
Brilliant! I have made several reversible pinafores for my Little and have cursed this step. I knew there had to be a better way! Thankyouthankyouthankyou!
Thank you so much for the instructions! I've had nightmares about sewing all-in-one, now I feel so confident! Thanks!!!
Thanks so much for this! I think i'm being dense but i cant figure out step 5 onwards, i just can't make any sense of it. I have never made anything like this but i thought it would be easy, it's just the whole strap bit i'm struggling with. Could anyone help me? or better yet can anyone show me?
I did this with my azalea yoke made of tricot. Was a bit hard to figure out first and the stretchy fabric did not help, but the finishing is soooo professional. I could not have done it with hand sewing as the tricot would have just wobbled and stretched in funny places. To fee-fee-fiona: To figure out how to pull trough what in what strap, I first slightly stitched only the outer strap shoulder seam (so not the facing of the strap). Right side to right side, as you would a normal seam. Just a few stitches to attach. Then I pulled the whole thing inside out as explained above. This way I knew exactly which end belonged to which in sewing it closed. [ I think the how-to above might be a bit hard to follow as it is all black and the turning step isn't shown that clearly. ] I'll see if I can draw up what I did to help in understanding this. It is really worth it!