Sewing a shirt collar with collar stand (6933 Views)

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  Step 1 of 10

  Here are the steps I have followed to sew a shirt collar (on the read jeans dress).

  Cut out collar and collar stand pieces based on your pattern. You should end up having 2 collar pieces and 2 collar stand pieces.

  I like to make the collar piece that will be on top a little bigger than the other, so that it allows the fabric to fold nicely when the collar is done. Notice this in the next picture. I put a pin or a mark on it so I know it is the piece on top.

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  Step 2 of 10

  Collar: Place rights sides together and interfacing on the back.

  Pin the collar points first, then the center and the top edges.

  Start sewing from the neck edge. when you reach the collar point slow down, check that you have gone far enough, simply by leaving the needle in the fabric, lift the presser foot and turn around, stitch thought the center of the collar. You can sew all around if the fabric does not stretch, or stop at the center, turn the collar and do the same seam starting from the other edge, turning and continuing to the center.

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  Step 3 of 10

  To turn the collar, grade the seams to reduce the bulk of the fabric. Cut the interfacing close to the seam-line. Cut about half of the seam allowance for the middle layer. You get a nice flat seam to topstitch on.

  Cut the corner close to the point seam, careful not to cut the seam.
  

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  Step 4 of 10

  Turn it around. Push the tip with something narrow and hard, to get a crisp corner. Hand press the seam so that the seam is rolled towards the back.

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  Step 5 of 10

  Topstitch the collar. Guide the seam with the foot leg. Leave the needle in at the corners, lift the presser foot, turn, let down the presser foot and stitch.

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  Step 6 of 10

  The topstitching will give your collar a nice finished look.

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  Step 7 of 10

  Attaching collar stand (band) to collar: Match the marks on the stand, at the tip of the stand, with the edge of the collar. Put a layer of interfacing if you want. My fabric was stiff as it was, so I did not add the interfacing. Place the collar in between the collar bands, the collar bands should face the collar. Sew.

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  Step 8 of 10

  When you have a straight seam and a drastic curve, you have to cut small clips (or clip the seam) in the seam and going a thread or two to the seam line (careful not to cut the seam line). This will give you enough stretch for the fabric can lay smoothly.

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  Step 9 of 10

  Press this seam.

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  Step 10 of 10

  Attaching the collar stand to shirt: The shirt back and front are attached at the shoulder lines. Sew a stay seam around the neckline, as it is curved and it will distort otherwise.

  Match the marks on the collar bands to the shoulder seam (not the topstitching) of the shirt.

  Start sewing on the seam line on the collar stand. Straighten the ruffles that are created underneath the seam.

  Turn the seam allowance inside and press it under towards the top of the collar. Pin the stand around, along the stitch that attached the stand to the shirt.

  You can now hand stitch it or machine stitch it, topstitching it from the wrong side (backstitch at the ends).

  This stitch will show on the right side of the fabric as well.

  All done!