Apply a Mock Fly-Front Zipper (3189 Views)

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  Step 1 of 9

  You will find the Mock Fly-Front application is used as the front closure on many skirts and pants. Unlike a Real Fly-Front zipper, it does not have separate pattern pieces for zipper facing and the curve of the fly is essentially topstitched onto the front.

  You will know if your pattern requires a mock fly-front treatment if the front pattern piece has an extended seam allowance (1 ½" [3.8 cm) fly extension) where the zipper goes.

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  Step 2 of 9

  I have illustrated how to do this for a pair of pants. Sew any front and back details such as pockets and darts. Sew each leg of the pant, outseams and inseams, so that you have two separate legs

  (In a matching thread I have sewn the center front line and the curved fly line to help illustrate which side is which. I have also made any illustrated notes regarding the front right side [if you were wearing the pants, your right side] in BLUE and the front LEFT side in red. Also, please note that I will use the terms CORRECT and INCORRECT instead of right and wrong when it comes to which side of the fabric, as it can be very confusing, especially in this kind of project.)

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  Step 3 of 9

  Put one leg inside the other, with correct sides facing, and matching side seams, center front, and center back.

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  Step 4 of 9

  Stitch the FRONT crotch seam to the zipper opening at the bottom of the fly extension.

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  Step 5 of 9

  Clip at the bottom of the fly extension.

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  Step 6 of 9

  Press open the fly extension along the center front. In this case, the right side of the fly will cover the left side. So pin the right fly extension ¼" (.635 cm) beyond the pressed center front line. (If your pants have the left covering the right, then do the opposite.) On the Left side of the fly attachment, pin 2/5" (1 cm) past the center front line. Then, with the zipper closed, and correct side of the zipper and the fabric facing up, position the zipper teeth just next to this line. With the needle as close to the teeth as possible- and using a zipper foot, stitch along the folded edge of the seam allowance the entire length of the zipper.

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  Step 7 of 9

  With the correct side of the pants up, pin the right side of the folded fly extension over the closed zipper so it covers the zipper and the previous stitching.

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  Step 8 of 9

  With the incorrect side of the pants facing up, flip the garment back to show the unsewn fly extension and zipper tape. Sew the zipper tape to the fly extension, using the zipper foot and as close to the teeth as possible, being sure to keep the rest of the garment out from underneath the needle!

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  Step 9 of 9

  Turn the garment to the correct side. Press the overlapping flap over the zipper. Stitch ¾" (2cm) parallel to the fly fold, through all layers of fabric, and curving to meet the bottom of the zipper to finish the appearance of a fly-front zipper. (This line may already exist on your pattern, and if that is the case simply copy this line).

  Now you can attach a waistband or facing.