Fullbust adjustment for princess seams (1646 Views)

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  Step 1 of 10

  Measurements you will need are bust, waist, back length, front waist length and bust point. Use your back length measurement To decide to lengthen or shorten the pattern. Use your waist measurement to decide on the size you will use. Then compare the bust, bust point and front waist length. I used a size 46 pattern, My measurements for those points were bust point of 12”, Front waist length 20” and bust of 44 ”. For this size the pattern is bust point 11 1/2”, front waist length 18” and Bust 41”. This means that I want to add a 1/2” to the the bust point, a total of 2” to the waist length and 3” to the bust width. (I have to Shorten the pattern by 1 ½ “ by waist back length my front waist and bust points were shortened by these amounts as well. that is why they do not match the chart)

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  Step 2 of 10

  Prepare your pattern, by cutting out your size, lengthening or shorting it, and drawing the stitch lines on to the front pieces.

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  Step 3 of 10

  On the Side Front piece mark the bust point (this is the widest point on the curve). Now add the bust point to the front middle piece by walking the stitching line until you come to the bust point on the side front. Transfer this point to the Center Front piece.

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  Step 4 of 10

  Lowering the bust point, choose a spot above the bust point by 1-2 inches mark this point on The Side front pattern piece. Draw a line From the mark to the side seam stitching line3. This is one time I do not fallow the rule of keeping alterations perpendicular to the straight of grain. Cut along this line to but not through the stitching line. With paper underneath tape the top part of the piece to paper mark the amount to be increased at the front stichline and draw a line to the point on the side seam where you cut to. now tape the bottom of the piece into place along this line. Redraw the straight of grain using the line from the bottom half of the pattern.

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  Step 5 of 10

  Mark your point on the center front piece the same distance from the bust point Draw a line straight across. Cut the front middle piece all the way across. Put paper underneath and tape the top to the paper Extend the center front and fold lines on to the new paper. Measure and mark the amount to be increased from the top, tape the other side of the cut to mark, being sure that the center front and fold lines match up

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  Step 6 of 10

  Mark a point 1-2 below the bust point draw a line to the side stitch line perpendicular to the grain line. Cut to but not through the side stitch line. With paper underneath tape the top half of the piece to the paper and measure and mark the amount to be increased at the stitching line draw a line from this mark to the cut point and tape the bottom half in place. Redraw the straight of grain on the side front piece by drawing a line connecting the top of the old grain line to the bottom of the old grainline. Clean up the pattern lines using an French curve ruler,or sketch in.

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  Step 7 of 10

  Mark the point in the same spot on the center front piece and draw a line straight across, cut apart. With paper underneath tape the top of the piece, extend the fold land center front lines. mark you increase and draw the line across and tape the bottom half to it. redraw the cut lines.

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  Step 8 of 10

  Adding width Can be done in three places the side seam, the side front font stitch line and the center front seam line. For the front center seams use the bust point for the mark and on the side pick a spot above the waist. draw a straight line in perpendicular from the grain line and draw a line up parallel to the grain line to the shoulder stitch line. cut alog these lines up to but not through the stitching line of the shoulder seam spread each the amount the difference in the bust line mark and tape in place.

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  Step 9 of 10

  Blend the added width into waist. Clean up edges and seam allowances for any puckers straighten shoulder seam if it is now out wack from adding width. Walk all seams to check fit. Redraw button holes. spreading them out as necessary.

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  Step 10 of 10

  Cut out your altered pattern, and make a muslin to check the fit, adjust as necessary. Now you have a pattern to fit your bust and your waist.