Heidi Prom Dress Variation (3141 Views)

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  Step 1 of 10

  We changed the neckline. The new patterns are in the Heidi Prom Dress Variation PDF pattern.

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  Step 2 of 10

  We eliminated the pockets and made the front skirt into one continuous piece by combining the Center Front skirt, the Side Front skirt, and the Hip Yoke Piece. This combined pattern piece is also in the PDF.

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  Step 3 of 10

  Now, we slash, spread and extend the skirt pieces (front and back) to create the long A-line skirt. Draw three lines to slash, cut to seam line, and pivot as shown. We spread to about 2.5” at the original hemline to get the fullness of our variation. If you want more or less fullness, you can play with this amount. Then, extend the length of the skirt. We wanted ours shorter in the front extending to longer in the back. You can play with this as you see fit. Just be sure the length is the same at the side seem for front and back.

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  Step 4 of 10

  We used the same pattern pieces for both layers of our satin skirt, just shortening the hemline on the top layer. You can choose to use two layers, or one layer, and play with the stylelines of the hem(s) as you see fit.

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  Step 5 of 10

  Now, time for the tulle! We will give you the measurements we used, but your measurements may differ based on the fullness of you’re A-line, your desired amount of poof, and the weight and stiffness of your tulle. We used two layers of tulle and attached them to the dress’s skirt lining with a strip of folded-over muslin stitched along the top to keep the gathering smooth.

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  Step 6 of 10

  For the layer of tulle closest to the body (inner layer) we cut two rectangles 72” wide x 26” high for the top tier, and 150” wide x 17” high for the bottom tier. We attached this layer 6” from the hemline of the skirt lining. We gathered the wider tier before sewing it to the shorter tier, and then gathered them more together as necessary.

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  Step 7 of 10

  For the outer layer of tulle, we cut 2 rectangles 60” wide x 17” high for the top tier, and two tiers 85”wide x 16”high for the middle and bottom tiers. We attached this layer 10” up from the hemline of the skirt lining. We sewed the middle and bottom tier together, and then gathered until we liked the shape.

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  Step 8 of 10

  At the front of the skirt, we draped by eye with quite a bit of trial and error. See what looks pretty to you, pin it, walk away, come back. Use small handstitches and keep them hidden.

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  Step 9 of 10

  For the belt, we used a simple foldover design. This is the same concept of a foldover waistband; see the first two steps of Nayantara’s How To Make a Party Skirt for measuring and interfacing the belt. For the flower, we made a long tube of satin, turned it, and played until we made a flower we like. Handstitch this to the belt, and use hooks & eyes to close.

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  Step 10 of 10

  Here are a few more suggestions for constructing this dress: 1.) Don’t attach the lining to the zipper; the volume of the tulle will create tension between the outer skirt(s) and the lining if attached. 2.) Use a baby hem stitch at the hem. There will be a how-to on that coming shortly. 3.) If your fabric is not wide enough for your back skirt you will have to piece it together. Put the panels together on the bias for a smoother, less instrusive look. 4. ) Have fun and be patient! Don’t start this dress a week before prom!