Dyeing Fabric - Shibori Techniques (21900 Views)

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  Step 1 of 9

  Step 1: Simple Stitching:
  Stitching in rows of straight lines creates a wood grain pattern called Mokume. Start with a light/ white colored fabric – the dye and pattern will show up more clearly. Thread your needle with very strong thread like upholstery or button craft thread. You are going to need to pull up the threads very tightly! Make a double knot where you begin and leave about 3 inches of loose thread where you end.

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  Step 2 of 9

  Creating Shapes: You can create many shapes with straight stitching. Just remember, the pattern lines will show up perpendicular to your stitching lines. This design of concentric circles is called Karamatsu, or larch. For this pattern, stitch concentric half-circles on the fold of your fabric. Start with the outside circle. You can use the same thread for three or four of the same row of circles without having trouble pulling up the stitches. Then on to the next row of circles inside of the ones you just stitched, and so on.

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  Step 3 of 9

  More challenging shapes:
  If you are feeling more ambitious, try making your own shapes with rows of stitching.

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  Step 4 of 9

  Ori Nui Shibori:
  This type of stitch lets you make linear designs. Putting your needle in crosswise, back and forth, make stitches just to the left and just to the right of your invisible line.

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  Step 5 of 9

  You can use Ori Nui Shibori to make wavy patterns or the outline of shapes.

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  Step 6 of 9

  Pull up the threads from their loose ends. I must stress this: use ALL of your might without breaking the threads to tighten up, scrunching your piece into a tiny, tight mass. Otherwise, the dye will be able to seep in and you won’t get a clear pattern. Tie the thread ends together in pairs, holding tightly. Be careful not to let it loosen up while tying.

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  Step 7 of 9

  Dyeing your cloth:

  Once all your stitches are tied tightly, you are ready to begin dyeing. I recommend using MX Reactive dyes which are made by Prochemical and Dye Co which is based in Somerset, Ma. They have a website with very useful how-to’s and information. MX Reactive dyes will work on Cellulose based fibers (cotton, linen, rayon). If you are using silk or wool you will need dyes for Protein based fibers, like Acid dyes. These dyes are generally not considered toxic if used correctly. However, airborne powers may be harmful to breathe in. Make sure you wear gloves and a mask until your powders are dissolved. More dyeing instructions can be found on their website. http://www.prochemical.com/directions/MX_Immersion.htm You will need: Pro MX dye powder- 2oz will dye 14 yds of muslin a medium shade. Salt, Synthrapol, or a light soap, Soda Ash – the dye activator, 5 gallon bucket or large stainless steel pot – not used for cooking!

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  Step 8 of 9

  Making your dyebath:
  Your dyebath will be good for one hour. After that it should be exhausted. Dissolve amount of dye powder, from the chart below, in a little warm water. Then, dissolve that into 2 cups of room temperature water. Make sure its dissolved thoroughly. For the dyebath, fill your large bucket with 2 gallons room temp. water for every lb of fabric. Your container should be large enough for the fabric to move freely and to stir the dye bath without spilling. Add salt, according to chart. Then add dissolved dye and stir. Add fabric. Stir continuously for 10 minutes for an even dye coverage. Completely dissolve PRO Dye Activator or Soda Ash from the chart in 2 cups (500ml) warm 95oF (35oC) water. While wearing rubber gloves remove the fabric from dye bath and pour in the dissolved PRO Dye Activator or Soda Ash. Give it a stir and return the fabric to dye bath. Stir continuously for the first 5 minutes. Then, give a stir every 5 minutes for the next 60 minutes. This will insure maximum permanence and depth of shade.

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  Step 9 of 9

  Rinse and Wash:
  After 60 minutes, dyeing is complete. Remove fabric from dye bucket and pour the exhausted dye bath down the drain. Rinse fabric thoroughly in a bucket of room temperature 75o to 95oF (24o to 35oC) water. Change the rinse water 3 to 4 times. Wash in HOT 140oF (60oC) water, adding a few drops of Synthrapol, (or soft soap). Rinse well and dry. Dark colors may need a second HOT Synthrapol wash. If the rinse water is not clear, then wash it again in HOT water with Synthrapol.

  Once your fabric is washed out, you may begin to carefully cut apart the stiches.