Constructing Sidonie á la Chanel (4391 Views)

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  Step 1 of 11

  This is how Sidonie á la Chanel looks when complete. Experiment with your own variations by using contrasting fabrics, textures, and colors. You can also use contrasting colored thread when you topstitch to add visual interest. Use your imagination!

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  Step 2 of 11

  When you downloaded and printed the Sidonie pattern in the first tutorial, you may have observed that the skirt was intended to be cut on the bias. If you need guidance with this technique, an excellent article from Threads magazine can be found here: http://www.taunton.com/threads/pages/t00007.asp .

  Since Sidonie á la Chanel is separated into a total of six panels, each of these panels must be cut on the bias.

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  Step 3 of 11

  Optional: An important modification was made to the back of this skirt. The original skirt had a back seam that extended from top to bottom. Sidonie á la Chanel only has a seam (for the zipper) in the top panel. The middle and lower panels were placed on the fold.

  To cut your back pieces this way, subtract the 5/8" seam allowance from the center back seam of the middle and lower panels, then cut on the fold.

  To illustrate this effect, examine this photo of the inside of the finished skirt.

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  Step 4 of 11

  First, staystitch the tops of the upper front and upper back panels.

  We'll define the suede side of the moleskin as the right side and the satin side as the wrong side.

  Pin the darts on the upper back panel, right sides together. Stabilize the darts with stay tape by stitching the tape over the dart line. Trim tape close to stitching and press darts towards center back seam.

  Stablilize the zipper by ironing a strip of fusible interfacing on the seamline (the length of the zipper) as shown. Stitch the back seam below the zipper marking on the top panel. Machine baste the the rest of the seam, stitching over the the interfacing. Press seam open.

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  Step 5 of 11

  My zipper was too long. Shorten the zipper by marking the desired length (in this case 7") from top to bottom. Use a zig zag stitch to replace the original zipper stop. You can also secure the bottom of the zipper by hand. Cut the zipper below your stitching.

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  Step 6 of 11

  Insert the zipper.

  Optional: Topstitch second row 1/8" along outside edge of zipper stitching. Topstitch darts along edges.

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  Step 7 of 11

  Stitch top back panel to upper middle back panel. (Because the top panel is suede, the middle panel will be satin. Therefore the middle satin side will face the suede top side when stitching.)

  Now attach the bottom panel to the lower part of the middle panel (suede side facing the satin middle panel).

  Repeat these steps for front panel pieces.

  Finish seams and press towards the suede panels. Topstitch, using a twin needle. (Photo shows topstitching details.)

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  Step 8 of 11

  Stitch front to back together at sides. Press seams open.

  Tip: Use a pressing cloth to prevent marring the fabric. Use a tailor's ham (or rolled up towel) to press the curved part of the seam at the hip.

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  Step 9 of 11

  The leopard patterned grosgrain ribbon is used as the waistband facing. Turn under each edge of the ribbon 1/2" and press. Pin the wrong side of the grosgrain ribbon to the right side of the upper skirt, using the staystiching as a guide. Ease the skirt to the band. Stitch close to the edge of the grossgrain ribbon. Turn ribbon to the inside and press.

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  Step 10 of 11

  Reinforce the wrong side of the grosgrain ribbon above the side seams with a small piece of fusible interfacing. Stitch a 5/8" buttonhole on the grosgrain ribbon directly over the side seam, as shown. Repeat on the other side. (The detachable belt will be inserted through the opening in the skirt side seam and pass through the buttonhole on the band.)

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  Step 11 of 11

  Tack down the the grosgrain band to the skirt at the darts and seams, making sure the stitches do not show on the outside of the garment.

  Finish the lower edges of the skirt, turn under 1/2" and hem, using a twin needle. Press.

  Congratulations! You have finished sewing the skirt. The last mini-tutorial will guide you in making a detachable belt for Sidonie á la Chanel.