Inset box pleats (2406 Views)

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  Step 1 of 11

  Divide your pattern up evenly. the best place to do this on a skirt (like the sidonie) is to use the dart placement and diving the line evenly down the center of the dart.

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  Step 2 of 11

  Cut your fabric out just as you would normally. add extra seam allowance on the edges of where the pleat will be so you don't run into sizing problems!

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  Step 3 of 11

  Cut rectangles for the pleats. they should be as long as the skirt for ease and as wide as you would like. the wider the pleat the greater the kick - but there will be more bulk added to the skirt as well.

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  Step 4 of 11

  With right sides together stitch the pleat part to the skirt panels. if the pleat rectangle is shorter than the skirt line it up with the hem not the waist.

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  Step 5 of 11

  now you should have a very odd looking extra long skirt panel

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  Step 6 of 11

  now, with right sides together again, find the edges of the main skirt panels and pin together. you will have the contrasting part sticking out the back and the two skirt faces together. stitch down the line as far as you want the join to go. whatever is left will be your pleat. keep the stitch as near the edge of the join as possible. this is also a good time to do the tailoring on the waist..

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  Step 7 of 11

  open it all out..

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  Step 8 of 11

  Iron the seams flat and out.

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  Step 9 of 11

  now stitch the seams INTO the pleat. I know you just pressed them out, but now that you are stitching them inwards it will start to give the pleat it's shape

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  Step 10 of 11

  Stitch across the pleat opening on the right side. you can angle it or make little crosses. I just backtacked straight. it's to secure the pleat.

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  Step 11 of 11

  Top stitch across the top if you want to tidy up a little and add security to the pleat. then press and continue on with your creation!