Cargo Pockets (2075 Views)

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  Step 1 of 14

  To cut the pieces: Determine what size you want your finished pocket to be, then how big you want the center pleat to be. Double the width of the pleat, then add to your pocket width along with a doubled seam allowance. (For instance, for a 6x6" pocket with a 2" pleat and 1/2" seams, you would add 4" for the pleat and 1" for the seams for a total of 11" wide.) For the height, add 2" (for the top pocket facing) plus doubled seam allowance. (Example: For that 6x6" pocket, you would cut 9" for the height.) If you're going to use a top flap, figure out how high you want it to be, double that, and add doubled seam allowances to both dimensions.

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  Step 2 of 14

  Finish the edges of the pocket so they don't fray. (Either serging or zig-zag stitch)

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  Step 3 of 14

  Fold pocket in half widthwise, with right sides together. From the fold, mark in width of pleat. On this line, mark 1" from bottom and 3" down from top.

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  Step 4 of 14

  Stitch along the marked line until the 3" mark from top. Backstitch to reinforce. From here, baste to the next mark (1" from bottom). Shorten stitch length again, stitch and backstitch to reinforce point.

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  Step 5 of 14

  With pins, mark the top and bottom of fold. (This will become the center.) Unfold the pocket, with the pleat facing towards the bottom, and line up the pins with the center seam. Press flat.

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  Step 6 of 14

  Remove pins. From top, fold seam allowance to inside and press. From there, fold down 1 inch to OUTSIDE. Pin sides, stitch at seam allowance.

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  Step 7 of 14

  Trim top corners from fold and turn facing to inside. Pin facing down and stitch close to the edge.

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  Step 8 of 14

  Press remaining seam allowances to the inside. (Note: If you're not making the top flap, skip to step 13.)

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  Step 9 of 14

  If you're making the top flap, take that piece and fold in half from top to bottom, right sides together. Sew the three open edges, leaving a gap in the long edge wide enough to turn the pocket.

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  Step 10 of 14

  Trim all four corners, turn right-side out through the gap and push the corners out (with a point turner, chopstick, whatever you can find to get a nice point.) Press flap flat.

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  Step 11 of 14

  Topstitch close to the edge on the three sewn edges. (The folded edge will be sewn to the garment.)

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  Step 12 of 14

  If you're going to add any closures to the pocket that require sewing, like velcro or a buttonhole, do that now. (Much easier than attempting to do it once the pocket's on your clothes!)

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  Step 13 of 14

  Position pocket on garment, pin and sew on the sides and lower portion. If using the top flap, position and sew along the original fold, making sure that whatever closures you're using are lined up so it will close properly.

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  Step 14 of 14

  Remove the basting stitches from the pleat in the center. And you're done!