Single welt pockets (2800 Views)

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  Step 1 of 5

  Draw your welt pocket size on your garment. In this example, I use 1 inch wide and 5 inches long. Fuse interfacing over your pocket position on the wrong side on the garment. Cut your welt piece (contrasting fabric in my case) to be 3 times the width of the welt pocket size and the length of your welt pocket plus 2 times the seam allowance. My welt piece is 3 inches wide and 6.25 inches long (for a 5/8" seam allowance). You can add interfacing to the welt piece if you'd like it to be stiffer. Fold your welt piece in half (right sides facing), and stitch the edges.

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  Step 2 of 5

  Trim the seams on your welt, turn it right side out and press. Baste the raw edges of the welt together. Now, pin your welt (top side down) so that the raw edges of the welt are aligned with the center line of your pocket. Stitch your welt to the garment along the outside pocket line (0.5" away from the centerline in my case).

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  Step 3 of 5

  Using a sharp pair of scissors, cut along the center line of the pocket (being careful not to cut the welt), ending about a 1/2" from the end, and clip a "v" into the corners.
  

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  Step 4 of 5

  Cut two big pocket pieces out of your contrast fabric. The size of the pockets is up to you, they just need to be slighty longer than the length of the welt, the top pocket piece will need to be longer Place your pocket pieces right side down with the edges aligned with the pocket's center line. Stitch the pockets to the garment along the edges of marked pocket line. For the lower pocket piece, you will stitch over the seam connecting the welt to the garment (with raw edges of welt and pocket piece aligned).

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  Step 5 of 5

  Turn the pocket so that the pocket pieces are right sides facing and inside the garment and the welt is on the outside (with the folded edge at the top of the pocket). Press so that everything lays nice and flat. Sew around the outside of the pocket bag (use a zigzag stitch or serger for durability). Fold the small triangles that you cut into the garment fabric to the inside of the pocket. Edge stitch the sides of the welt to the garment making sure to catch the small triangles.