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drafting leg of mutton top (5172 Views)
I uploaded this top only one size, other sizes can be done by fallow this how to, it's not
hard, promise.
view all steps
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Step 1 of 7
Rip serger stitches off the very fitted turtleneck top and knock off the pattern by laying top onto paper and trace around, also remove seam allowance off. If you already have knit sloper, use that, or download basic knit top from this website, raise the neck line, choose the size well, it needs to be really fit, especially the sleeves otherwise it
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Step 2 of 7
Draw inset. I measure from neckline down 20.5 cm and the
width of inset is about 9 cm. It should be somewhere underbust.
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Step 3 of 7
Draw 3 lines, you will cut and spread them
later.
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Step 4 of 7
Set up the fake turtleneck or create other style such as boatneck, keeps it simple. Cut and spread that three lines as state.
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Step 5 of 7
You need to true line after spreading. Now the front bodice is ready for adding seam allowance but before doing that take care of the back bodice neck by copy from the front. I think 1/2" seam allowance works well, you can trim them later when serge, especially the curve between the shoulder and turtleneck.
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Step 6 of 7
I drafted the sleeve according to this website, check it out. http://vintagesewing.info/1940s/42-mpd/illust/04-112.jpg http://vintagesewing.info/1940s/42-mpd/mpd-04.html
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Step 7 of 7
Spread and true line. This sleeve cap is need to be huge otherwise it doesn't look good. I had to widen my pattern 3 times to get good result.
Materials
Store bought fitted turtleneck or knit sloper.
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COMMENTS (8)
That is so useful and so clear! thanks very much for that. I was first just going to alter your pattern but I think it'll be easier for me know to just start with a sloper and follow these instructions instead to get the right side for me. Thanks so much for taking the time to document all this!!
Thank you for this tutorial and the top, it is very original and also thank you so much for the link to vintage sewing i found it extremely useful.
Actually I had the thought - I wonder if you could use Lydia as your starting point for this in lieu of a knit sloper? I can't find out how much ease Lydia's got, though, so I'm not sure if it'd be too loose for this style of alteration...
Thanks for posting the sleeve draft how-to! I really want to try it now :)
You're welcome! Lydia top would work as the sloper too but you have to choose size that really fitted, consider 1 size down , I compare my H&M turtleneck sloper to Lydia, found that Lydia has wider shoulder ,larger armhole so you should reduce that too.
Thanks, JJ. I actually made this last night using Lydia and this How To (I'll post a creation soon!). I went down two sizes on Lydia to make it snug, and once the was sewn up I realised the panel was too low so I raised the shoulder, just making the armholw smaller and pulling everything up. But apart from that (which was all down to my starting pattern!) it was very smooth sailing and I followed your How To perfectly! :)
Thank you JJ! I will defintevely use it soon. The VitageSewing site is sooo inspirational and sooo useful for me since I have never taken any sewing/pattern making class.
I have a question about the upper 80cm. measurement; will this be enough as I am a Burda size 50? It seems to be a design element that doesn't affect fit. Cordially, Nehmah