Talea- Variation 2- Double Breasted Pattern Alteration (4323 Views)

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  Step 1 of 16

  To make the pattern for this variation of the Talea coat, print out the entire Talea pattern.

  You will be altering the following three pieces:

  1- Center Front

  2- Side Front

  9- Collar Stand

  You will use these following pieces as they are on the Talea pattern: #3- Center Back #4- Side Back #5- Yoke #6- Sleeve Front #7- Sleeve Back #10- Back Facing #16- Sleeve Latches

  You will not be using these pieces at all: #8- Collar #11- Pocket #12- Pocket Flap #13 through #15- Back ,Upper, and Shoulder Latches Now take Piece #1. Take note of the center front line, as shown in orange above. This will remain the center front, but instead of keeping the facing to the right of this line, we will cut off the facing.

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  Step 2 of 16

  Be sure to label this new double-breasted center front piece with the information shown above. This piece will now be cut on the fold, and it will be cut 4 X (it will become its own facing.)

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  Step 3 of 16

  On the top of your new Center Front piece, choose which size you will be sewing. For this How To, I am using a size 34. Mark off the 5/8” (1.5cm) seam allowance to get the actual sewing line. The sewing line is shown above in orange. Measure this line. For me, this measurement is 2 3/8” (approx 6 cm). We will use this measurement to create the new, longer stand collar.

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  Step 4 of 16

  Take piece # 9, the collar stand. This variation of the jacket does not have a lapel, so instead we are going to make the collar stand into a standing collar by increasing its width and lengthening it to fit across the entire new double-breasted center front. Since the front piece extends past the Center Front, the collar must be extended. To do this, begin by cutting the seam allowance off of the piece. Be sure to mark the appropriate shoulder notch for your size. Place this piece on a new piece of pattern paper. Extend the center front line of the neck opening, as shown in orange above. Make sure there is at least 5 inches of blank pattern paper to the right of this line. Fold the paper along this line.

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  Step 5 of 16

  With this piece now folded, use a tracing wheel and tracing paper to trace along the edge of the collar, about as long as shown with the orange lines above.

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  Step 6 of 16

  Unfold. Use a pen to clearly mark the line you just traced on the opposite side of the fold. Measure across the bottom 2 3/8” (whatever measurement you found in step 3) and extend the pattern piece this much.

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  Step 7 of 16

  Extend the top of the pattern piece by 1” (2.5 cm) to give the collar a bit more height. Then be sure to mark the Center Front, and add seam allowance on all edges except for the Center Back, which will still be cut on the fold. The collar will still be cut 2 times.

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  Step 8 of 16

  Now take piece #2, the Side Front. From this piece we are going to make three new pieces: the Front Side Top, the Front Side Bottom, and the Pocket. We will create all of these pieces at once on the one piece. You will then have to trace off the individual pieces onto separate pieces of paper before you cut- will explain in later step. To begin, mark off the seam allowance on both the side seam and the princess panel seam. Find the waist notch on the side seam, and mark a point that is 3 ½” (9.5cm) below it on the sewing line.

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  Step 9 of 16

  From this point, measure again further down the side seam 5 ½” (14 cm). Mark this point. Draw a line perpendicular from this point through the pattern piece to the other side- this will be the pocket bottom sewing line. Add 5/8” (1.5 cm) to this line to show the cutting line.

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  Step 10 of 16

  Now, make a mark at the waist notch on the other side of the piece. Using your French curve, create a nice curved pocket opening connecting the point marked in step 8 to the other waist notch.

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  Step 11 of 16

  Add seam allowance to this curved line.

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  Step 12 of 16

  Now your piece should look like this.

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  Step 13 of 16

  Now, we begin to mark off each of the separate pieces. The first piece, the Front Side Top, includes the entire shoulder, armhole, and sides down to the pocket bottom cutting line that was made in step 9. The cutting line for this piece is shown here highlighted in blue. Notice that the top part of the pocket curve was also highlighted- this is to know the pocket placement. Label this piece appropriately- it will be Cut Twice.

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  Step 14 of 16

  The next piece, seen here highlighted in green, is the Pocket. It goes from the waist notch marks, the curve, and the bottom pocket line, with the added seam allowance. This piece will also be cut twice.

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  Step 15 of 16

  Finally, the Front Side Bottom piece begins along the pocket curve and continues all the way down to the hem. It is shown above in pink highlighter, including the seam allowance. Be sure to label all the pieces correctly- this piece will be cut twice.

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  Step 16 of 16

  These are the 5 new pieces you have. Now you can make the double-breasted version! For buttonholes, either mirror the buttonholes as marked on the original talea, or re-arrange them in a way that looks best on you!