Grade skirt and pants patterns (5203 Views)

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  Step 1 of 2

  This How To shows the grade lines for skirts and pants. The technique illustrated in the previous How To’s (Grading a Bodice to a Larger Size How To and Grading a Sleeve to a smaller size How To can be applied to these pattern pieces to make them either a smaller or a larger size. Each pattern piece has several vertical and horizontal lines in areas where the body generally gets bigger or smaller, as the sizes change. For a skirt, they are illustrated above. Once you have calculated the overall grade, learned in This How To, find the allocated grade by dividing the overall grade by four.
  

  Then, to distribute the allocated grade with each of the lines illustrated in here, you must use the formula written below.

  A-B: Waist to Hem Before Dart: ¼ of allocated grade

  C-D: Waist to Hem before Dart: ¼ of allocated grade

  E-F: Waist to Hem after Dart: ½ of allocated grade

  G-H: CF or CB to Side Seam at Hipline: ½ of allocated grade

  I-J: CF or CB to Side Seam at Mid-thigh: ½ of allocated grade

  Mark these measurements on your pattern. *These formulas come from a calculation of all the parts of the pattern body/etc…. and is a bit difficult to explain. Trust me…

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  Step 2 of 2

  The grade lines for pants are illustrated above, and are described below. To distribute the allocated grade with each of the lines, use the formulas below.

  A-B: Midpoint of crotch extension: 1/3 of allocated grade

  C-D: Waist to Hem Before Dart: ¼ of allocated grade

  E-F: Waist to Hem before Dart: ¼ of allocated grade

  G-H: Waist to Hem after Dart: ½ of allocated grade

  I-J: CF or CB to Side Seam at Hipline: ½ of allocated grade

  K-L: CF or CB to Side Seam at Mid-thigh: ½ of allocated grade Mark these measurements on your pattern, and begin grading!