|
Cheeky Panties (18983 Views)
Panties pattern is located at http://www.burdastyle.com/patterns/show/2437
The panties have a lowered-waist, hipster cut with either a slightly cheeky behind or a decidedly cheeky behind, depending on both the stretchiness of the knit you use for the panties and the fleshiness of the bottom that fills them (they’re very cheeky on me due to my ample posterior. They look far less cheeky in the pictures because Ms Dressform has a teeny little botty).
These panties are also comfortable despite said cheekiness- you know how years and years ago when g-strings first came out, the buzz was all “Oooooh, they’re sexy and like, so! comfortable!” when in fact they’re like, so! neither! Well these panties actually, uh, fulfill the brief, as it were.
These panties are far harder to describe how to make than they are to make. If you require any clarification by all means contact me via a comment on my profile page, I will do my best to assist.
Pattern is sized for a Burda 38 because I drafted/modelled them to myself and that’s what I am, but they will perhaps fit the sizes just-above-and-below due to being made from stretch knit. I am sorry not to be able to offer more sizes at this stage, but after sweating over the pattern the thought of now having to grade it made me start hyperventilating and rather than lose conciousness over it, I thought I’d just get the pattern up and available to members, and perhaps if I was very very lucky another kind BurdaStyle soul might even take it upon herself to grade it...
view all steps
-
1
-
2
-
3
-
4
-
5
-
6
-
7
-
8
-
9
-
10
-
11
-
12
-
13
-
Step 1 of 13
1) Fold fabric along grain of the knit and place the main pattern piece on fold as indicated; the arrow on the pattern indicates the direction of the crosswise stretch, which should be the greatest amount of stretch in your fabric. Your other pattern pieces can be laid out on a single thickness of fabric, and you may like to use a different, contrast-coloured knit fabric for your waistband piece.
Pin pattern pieces firmly to your fabric before cutting around them, being careful not to distort the stretchy fabric as you move your scissors. Keep scissors as close to the table as possible, or, if you have a rotary cutter and cutting mat, this is a great time to use them as they disturb the fabric least while you cut.
-
Step 2 of 13
Fold fabric to match centre back seams with right sides facing. If you are using a serger (overlocker), use a 1- 1.5 stitch length and set your diferential feed to 2.
If you are using a sewing machine, you can use:
· a treble-seaming stitch; if you choose this option, trim the seam allowances after stitching and then overedge them together with a zigzag to prevent them raveling.
· a stretch overcast stitch: there’s no need to then overedge, but after sewing seam trim seam allowances close to overcast stitch line.
· narrow zigzag stitch; sew seam twice for extra strength, and after trimming seam allowances use zigzag again to overedge them together and prevent raveling.
-
Step 3 of 13
Serge or zig-zag overedge on rounded end of gusset as indicated on pattern piece. Place right sides of the front crotch and back crotch together, and place unserged/overedged edge of gusset piece on top of front crotch piece matching notches, then seam all three together. Don’t worry if the gusset piece is right side, wrong side, it's the gusset noone’s gonna see it. Once seamed, fold gusset piece back toward centre back seam, and baste sides of gusset to the legholes on each side. If you forgot to cut out a gusset piece altogether and cant be bothered going back and cutting one out now, don't worry too much about it, the panties are cotton so they should still be comfortable without one.
-
Step 4 of 13
Take the waistband piece and match the short ends right sides together and seam with a 1cm allowance, you will now have a circle.
-
Step 5 of 13
Fold the circle in on itself with right sides out.
-
Step 6 of 13
Divide the waistband and top of the panties in quarters with pins, and match raw edges of the waistband to edge of the top of the panties with the waistband facing the right side of the panty fabric.
-
Step 7 of 13
As the waistband piece is slightly shorter than the distance around the top of the panty, you will be stretching it slightly between the pins as you sew or serge them together. The waistband being slightly shorter like this is what helps your panties stay up! Attach all the way around, and then unfold- there's your waistband. At this point you may want to do some three-step zig-zag top-stitching from the outside of the panties for decoration and to catch the seam of the waistband.
-
Step 8 of 13
Try the panties on. If you like the look of them as they are, or if you realized just now that you forgot to buy underwear elastic, to finish you can just serge the edges or zigzag the raw edge of the fabric (catching the sides of the gusset piece as you do so to attach firmly)- the picture shows how this looks. Certainly this option has the benefit of allowing the fabric to rest against your bottom/legs rather than squeezing into your flesh as elastic can, so you avoid the dreaded Visible Panty Line. However, your panties will have a less homemade look and will probably last longer if you do put some elastic around the legholes.
-
Step 9 of 13
To proceed with elastic application, you will need to now measure the legholes yourself to determine how much elastic they need- trying them on will have stretched them out just slightly, and this is a good thing for comfort, plus it attenuates somewhat the horrid VPL-effect mentioned above. You need to cut two pieces of elastic to this length PLUS 1cm- you will overlap the ends of each piece together to form two circles of elastic. Make sure you haven’t twisted the elastic, and use a zigzag stitch to make the join.
-
Step 10 of 13
Pin the elastic to the wrong side of the fabric in line with the edge of each leghole...
-
Step 11 of 13
...and attach all the way around with a narrow zigzag stitch.
-
Step 12 of 13
Once elastic has been attached all the way around, fold over toward inside, and then, from the right side of the fabric, use a three-step zigzag stitch (stitch length 1.5, width 4) to sew over the now-encased elastic. Repeat on other leghole.
-
Step 13 of 13
Your panties are done! I can't wait to see your creations, so make sure you take lots of pictures and show everybody your panties.... um, you know what I mean! :o)
Materials
50cm of 150cm-wide cotton knit fabric. Buying tip- get something with a few percentage points of lycra/elastane, so that your panties keep their shape better. In the fabric store, test for recovery by stretching it out and seeing how long it takes to return to its original length. You want something that recovers quickly. You might like to cut the waistband piece out of a contrasting color of the same type of fabric.
About 120cm of 6mm-wide underwear elastic. Buying tip- check the recovery of your elastic, too, it varies in quality. As this elastic is to go around the leg openings of the panties, you want something that has good recovery but that feels soft against the skin.
Thread of course. Maybe use a contrasting colour, that can look cute.
|
COMMENTS (17)
Fantastic how-to! I had plans for uploading a knickers how-to but you beat me to it. Maybe i still will since mine are slightly different :)
Do it do it! I love making underwear and I'd love to try out your pattern!
Thank you for the pattern - I plan to give it a try!
Hi Emilykate, how do I download the pattern? I've looked and looked but can't find a link.
Hi Amydoran! They should be under the pattern heading, http://www.burdastyle.com/patterns/show/2437 but here's a direct link Make sure and post pics if you make some :o)
Hi there, I am about to make this knickers and I am wondering if the seam allowances are included in the pattern? If so, how big are they? Thank you! Marija
Oh, I see, I have to search for a pattern with the same name as the how-to. I was looking for a link on this page to download the pattern. I'll try this soon and post the pics. Thanks for the pattern!
Emilykate - ignore my question. I should get arrested for stating such stupid questions. Later I found out, that the seam allowances are included and that the seam lines are drawn very nicely. I made this knickers today and they are great. Thank you so much for the pattern and the how to. :)
when sewing the elastic to the leg holes, do you stretch the elastic as you sew it on? or is it the same length as the leg hole (so no stretching when sewn on?). Does that make sense? im new to sewing with jersey and stretch materials and have a few niggles...