Grade a Sleeve Pattern to a Smaller Size (3793 Views)

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  Step 1 of 6

  Identifying grade lines of a sleeve pattern. Instead of being parallel to CF or CB, as is the case for the vertical grade lines on bodices and skirt patterns, the vertical grade lines are parallel to the sleeve’s grainline. Horizontal grade lines are perpendicular to the sleeves grain. To grade a pattern means to manipulate an existing pattern at various points in order to make it fit a smaller or larger size. Each pattern piece has several vertical and horizontal lines in areas where the body generally gets bigger or smaller, as the sizes change. For a sleeve, they are illustrated above:

  A-B: Center line from top of cap to hem C-D: Between sleeve seam and Front Armhole notch to hem E-F: Between sleeve seam and Back Armhole notches to hem G-H: Halfway between biceps and top of sleeve I-J: Halfway between biceps and elbow K-L: Halfway between elbow and hem

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  Step 2 of 6

  Establish the appropriate grade by following the Step 2 in the Grading a Bodice How To, but the grid is a bit different this time, as is the piece. This time, the zero point is on the bottom of the sleeve, in the center where the grainline meets the hem. We still will move the pattern around clockwise starting at zero, but instead of moving it in the direction we are tracing at the points where the grade lines are, we move the pattern in the opposite direction of our tracing, to make it smaller. This means the lines on your grid will start going to the right of zero, and below zero. Once you have calculated the overall grade, find the allocated grade by dividing the overall grade by four, the same as in the Bodice How To. Then, to distribute the allocated grade with each of the lines illustrated in step 1, you must use the formula written below.

  A-B= 1⁄2 of allocated grade C-D= 1⁄4 of allocated grade E-F= 1⁄4 of allocated grade G-H= 1⁄4 of allocated grade I-J= 1⁄4 of allocated grade K-L= 1⁄4 of allocated grade

  Mark these measurements on your pattern. *These formulas come from a calculation of all the parts of the pattern body/etc…. and is a bit difficult to explain. We will overload you with this explanation in the following How To.

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  Step 3 of 6

  Draw the vertical guidelines of your grid long, so you can see them above the sleeve cap. This will help you ensure the piece is straight as you shift it along.

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  Step 4 of 6

  Lay your existing pattern piece (without seam allowance) so zeros match up. Start tracing from zero, clockwise, but being sure to shift the pattern in the opposite direction of that which you are tracing. Trace until you get to the first pushpin, and then move the pattern to the 1st vertical line to the right of zero. Begin again at the pushpin point on the existing pattern (not where you stopped before shifting the pattern), tracing until you get to the next pushpin point, and again move the pattern in the opposite direction you are tracing, to the next line.

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  Step 5 of 6

  Continue all the way around until you arrive again at zero.

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  Step 6 of 6

  Lift off the pattern piece, and underneath find the new, smaller pattern! Smooth out any kinks with a French curve and a ruler, mark important lines like grain, bicep, and elbow, and label. Add seam allowance, and check your armhole measurements on whatever bodice you plan to add this sleeve to. Make sure you have the right amount of ease depending on your sleeve and method for setting it. This can be used to make other patterns smaller as well, simply start at the Zero indicated for that particular pattern piece!