Inverted pleat with a seperate underlay (3447 Views)

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  Step 1 of 5

  When adding a pleat to a seam you will need to add extra fabric( marked in green in the picture). The amount of fabric will depend on how wide you want your pleat to be. With right sides together sew the seam of your garment stopping at the top of the pleat, shown in orange.

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  Step 2 of 5

  Press open at the seam folding the extra fabric as you do.

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  Step 3 of 5

  Pin your separate underlay onto the front pleat flaps and sew in place down either side.

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  Step 4 of 5

  This is how your pleat will look on the right side.

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  Step 5 of 5

  A closer look.
  You can then top stitch the seams above the pleat if you wish.