Pattern Basics- Understanding the Cutting Layout (8005 Views)

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  Step 1 of 5

  This pattern layout shows where the pieces should lie on the two basic widths of fabrics (45" or 55" (114 cm or 140 cm) in order to be cut in a way that wastes the least amount of fabric.

  So, if you wanted to cut out a size 36 pattern in fabric that is 45" wide, you would follow the bottom layout in the above pic.

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  The layout indicates where the fold of the fabric should be when you cut the fabrics, with a thick dotted line.

  Additionally, the layout tells you which way to lay the actual pattern onto the fabric, meaning if the printed side of the pattern should face down onto the fabric, or face up. The solid line around a pattern piece means it should face up, and the thin dotted line means it should face down.

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  Generally as a rule, the fabric is folded so that the right side is on the inside. This makes marking darts, notches, etc, much easier after the piece is cut.

  When you lay out the pieces, be sure to line up the grainline marking on the pattern with the grainline on the fabric, going in the desired direction. Most commonly you will find the grainline to be a vertical line going from the top to the bottom of the pattern, which means it should be placed on the lengthwise grain of the pattern, running parallel to the selvage edge.

  First pieces to be pinned down should be those that are cut on the fold.

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  For the other pieces, pin one end of the grainline to the straight grain of the fabric. Measure the distance of the grainline from the selvage or fold of the fabric. Then move the pattern piece so the other end of the grainline is the same distance as the pinned place.

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  Once all your pieces are pinned, you may cut. (It is best not to throw around the fabric with the pinned pattern pieces on them, so they don't slide around, but if for some reason you cannot finish cutting all the pieces before you have to pack up, roll the fabric with the pieces still pinned and tuck away neatly until you are ready to cut.) And now, familiarize yourself with this key, which comes with all our patterns. This will help you decipher the marks on patterns, along with next weeks How To, Reading Patterns!