Drafting the odd trench (8305 Views)

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  Step 1 of 19

  Front Sloper:

  Move darts on your sloper to get result as my sloper. I have one dart at arm hole and one on waist line.

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  Step 2 of 19

  Back Sloper: I have one shoulder dart and a waist dart.

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  Step 3 of 19

  Cut and seperate your shoulder dart to the back neck line as shown.

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  Step 4 of 19

  Draft your front sloper base on numbers on the photo.

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  Step 5 of 19

  I dont' really like my skirt part but I is simple as the photo. Find where your pleats should be, draw line, cut and spread. You can also flare the side seams if you like too.

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  Step 6 of 19

  Front collar, spread them as shown.

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  Step 7 of 19

  Separate each piece out, center front piece, front side piece and shoulder piece.

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  Step 8 of 19

  Close dart before separate this shoulder piece out. ( the same with front side piece)

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  Step 9 of 19

  You are on you own on facings. I did kind of full facing, I think it is the easiest way.

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  Step 10 of 19

  Back: After you have done the step 3, you can draft the back bodice as shown.

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  Step 11 of 19

  back skirt: The same as front skirt (step 5)

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  Step 12 of 19

  This is a flap on the back shoulder. Trace & separate it out as shown, you will need two pieces, they are overlapping each other.

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  Step 13 of 19

  Separate back collar.

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  Step 14 of 19

  separate back side

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  Step 15 of 19

  separate center back piece.

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  Step 16 of 19

  I'm very bad at drafting sleeves so I used the sleeve pattern from Steffi jacket, big thanks to Burdastyle.com but instead of pleating at the shoulder head, I sew them shut, like we are sewing darts. It works for the stiff fabric that you cannot gather/ease. I also insert some fleece fabric at the shoulder heads so that they won't flop.

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  Step 17 of 19

  the original design at the front.

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  Step 18 of 19

  back note: don't forget to walk the lines, match and notch them, adding seam allowance, etc. If you want to have the tucks at the sleeves, you have to find the position and alter the sleeve pattern at that point, not just adding length at the cuff.

  I think I'm done, if you have questions, please ask.

• Step 19 of 19

  Credit: Mrs. Stylebook issue# 143-146, without them, I couldn't do this. Burdastyle.com for pattern pieces belt , cuffs belt from Laura dress sleeves from Steffi