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Make a Pattern Larger or Smaller (6238 Views)
Many of us are drawn to learn to sew because the clothes we find in stores just don't fit. It's therefore a rather cruel irony that most commercial patterns are produced in an even more limited range of sizes than store-bought clothing. Take heart, all you nymph-like and Boticelli-esque fashion lovers. If you've ever thought, "Wow, I'd love to make that. Too bad the pattern doesn't come in my size," there is a solution, and it's easier than you think! In fact, if you spread a multi-size pattern out in front of you and stare at it for a minute, it will probably become obvious how you alter the pattern size up or down. Just in case, here's an easy step-by-step tutorial on the process.
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Step 1 of 8
I've circled the pattern piece we're going to alter in purple. This pattern is printed in Burda sizes 34-42. We're going to alter this pattern down to a size 32. You could apply the same method to extend the pattern outward to a size 44. Although I have not tried it personally, I have been told that you can really only use this resizing method to go up or down at most 2 sizes- any more than that and the proportions might be off-alas for the many beautiful Burda Mode patterns that start in size 38! By the way, don't be tempted to think that you can change the size of a pattern by printing it out at a different scale or using a photocopier to shrink or enlarge it. If you get the waist to fit, you'll probably end up with teeny (or gaping) armholes and neck opening! This method takes a little time, but it works.
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Step 2 of 8
If you look at your pattern, you'll notice that the corners on every size lie in a straight line. At one such corner, place your ruler or measuring tape so that it runs through the corner of each pattern size. Measure the distance between the corners. Then mark a new point inside the size 34 outline (or outside the size 42 outline if you're making the pattern larger) at the same interval. In this illustration, the corners of the pattern sizes are spaced 1cm apart from each other, so we draw the new corner 1cm inside of the size 34 pattern, in line with the other corners. This will become the corresponding corner on your new pattern outline. Repeat this process for every graded corner. Leave any corners that are the same (shared) for all pattern sizes unchanged.
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Step 3 of 8
After you have marked all the corners, use a ruler to draw lines to connect the corners along straight pattern edges.
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Step 4 of 8
For curved edges, you may want to draw some new intermediary points by selecting a few places along the pattern edges, measuring the intervals between sizes, and drawing new points.
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Step 5 of 8
Here I've drawn a bunch of points along the new pattern edge. Simply connect them to draw the new pattern edge.
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Step 6 of 8
After you've drawn all the new pattern edges, don't forget to draw all of the other markings for your new size, including darts, and notches. This works pretty much the same way. Here we lay the measuring tape or ruler at the origin of each notch. They too lie in a straight line at regular intervals.
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Step 7 of 8
Mark the new corresponding notch at the same interval on your new pattern outline.
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Step 8 of 8
You've just finished resizing your pattern piece. That was easy, wasn't it? Repeat this process for every piece in the pattern and that's it- you're ready to make it in your size! Keep in mind, unless your pattern has different lengths for different sizes (which many patterns don't), this method will not help you alter the pattern size for a taller or shorter wearer. See the how-to "Burda Pattern Alteration for Petites" for information on how to lengthen and shorten a pattern. Good luck to my fellow non-standard-size seamstresses!
Materials
Multi-size pattern, ruler or measuring tape, writing instrument
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COMMENTS (5)
Thank you for taking the time to create this How to. I am a size 36 but oftentimes the waist is too large. I can modify your techique by going in at the waistline only.
Thank you so much for this! I'm fortunatelly size 38, so I usually don't need this, but it's always good to know!
Nice and clear explanation! (surely better than mine ;) )
Thank you. This is really helpful. I am a size 36 on top and a 44 on the hip section. Could you or anyone tell me how to merge the two sizes together? I am currently trying to alter a Burdastyle Janina pants pattern 8087. I am using the size 44 and want to taper the waist to a size 36. Help!! From Tania
The link to view the pattern is :http://www.burdastyle.com/patterns I tried to attach it as a link but couldn't as it's my first time posting a comment ever.