Steffi altered- take 1 (4012 Views)

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  Step 1 of 24

  In this how-to i will be altering the Steffi jacket to allow for my growing pregnant tummy. This image is of the muslin i made last week. I made cut the pieces as required in the original pattern from calico and with the jacket on i drew on the alterations i wanted to make with a pencil. Once cut i used the muslin to mark on the paper pattern which i then used to cut my good fabric.

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  Step 2 of 24

  In this image and the next you can see where i have made the alterations to the pattern in green.

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  Step 3 of 24

  Alterations in green.

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  Step 4 of 24

  Cut out the pattern pieces and lay onto your fabric. Cut out and make any markings required on the fabric using tailors chalk or contrasting thread.

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  Step 5 of 24

  Over lock all edges.

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  Step 6 of 24

  Sew the front pieces together as shown. Open out seams and press. A pressing ham would be helpful here, i must get one!

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  Step 7 of 24

  Sew centre back pieces together. Press seams open.

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  Step 8 of 24

  Sew outer back pieces to centre piece. Press seams open.

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  Step 9 of 24

  Pin front pieces to back at shoulders. Sew and press seams open.

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  Step 10 of 24

  Pin front facings to back facing, sew and press seams open. Remember to add interfacing beforehand, i forgot and had to unpick!

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  Step 11 of 24

  Sew collar with interfacing to jacket and collar without interfacing to facings. Clip curves and press seams open. Pin the facings to the jacket and sew around. Clip curves and corners. Turn right side out and press. You would normally sew down the facings here but i plan to line my jacket so have left them unfinished.

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  Step 12 of 24

  Top stitch all the way around.

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  Step 13 of 24

  Mark tucks on outside of sleeves.

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  Step 14 of 24

  Fold tucks, press and pin into place. Sew a wide stitch inside the seam allowance to keep in place.

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  Step 15 of 24

  Pin lower sleeve to upper sleeve, sew and press seam open.

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  Step 16 of 24

  Sew a gathering stitch between markings.

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  Step 17 of 24

  Pin other side of lower sleeve to upper sleeve. Sew and press seam open.

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  Step 18 of 24

  Pin sleeve right sides facing into opening. Be sure to match up lower seam to side seam of jacket, the centre tuck with the shoulder seam and distribute the width between the dots. Pin sleeve from sleeve side and stitch into place. Press seam allowance into the sleeve. Do the same with the other sleeve.

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  Step 19 of 24

  Fold cuffs of sleeves under twice, press and sew in place. I was originally going to make the sleeves shorter but decided to make them albow length.

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  Step 20 of 24

  Mark where the buttons are to go.

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  Step 21 of 24

  Using the buttonhole foot sew your buttonholes to match your buttons.

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  Step 22 of 24

  Cut open the buttonholes. Sew on buttons.

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  Step 23 of 24

  Unlined.

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  Step 24 of 24

  Front view.