My Malissa Cocktail Dress (15999 Views)

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  Step 1 of 22

  The only pattern pieces you’ll use are the front and back of the Malissa dress, with a couple modifications. First, use a ruler or french curve to make a new neckline. Draw straight across the top of the shoulder of the front and back pattern pieces, so it forms a straight line with your cutting line. (See picture)Trim at the line.

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  Step 2 of 22

  Second, shorten to your desired length (plus about an inch for the hem). I’m going to take three inches off here. Since it’s a curved hem, make sure you measure carefully: mark three inches from the bottom incrementally along the hem, and then connect these marks with a curved ruler. Trim pattern. Lay out your fabric and cut out both pattern pieces.

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  Step 3 of 22

  Sew the side seams. Press open. If you’re using a regular sewing machine rather than a serger, use a zigzag or overcast stitch. Also, I’ve found that it helps to start sewing about half an inch in—rather than at the very edge—so that the stretch fabric doesn’t get caught in the feed dogs. Don’t worry about backstitching to secure; this part will be folded under anyway.

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  Step 4 of 22

  Fold under the armholes ¼” and press. Fold under another ¼” and press again. Pin.

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  Step 5 of 22

  Stitch armholes at edge of fold with a straight stitch.

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  Step 6 of 22

  Make the neckline pleats as indicated and baste to secure.

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  Step 7 of 22

  Make the neck tie: On fabric, mark a rectangle 7” by 36”. Cut. Mark another rectangle 7” by 26”. Cut.

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  Step 8 of 22

  Sew the two rectangles to each other on the short end (right sides together), so they form one long piece.

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  Step 9 of 22

  Fold in half lengthwise, WRONG sides together. Fold the unfinished edge under 5/8 ” and press. Pin.

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  Step 10 of 22

  Cut each end on a slant, turn under, and pin.

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  Step 11 of 22

  Position the back seam of the necktie in the middle of upper back dress piece. (The shorter end of the necktie should be on the left side, as you would wear it—or whichever side you want the bow to tie on) Sandwich the upper back piece between the two layers of the necktie piece and pin. (About half an inch of the dress piece should be layered in.)

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  Step 12 of 22

  Sandwich the top of the front dress piece between the two layers, right next to the back piece (to the left of the back piece). (There should be no gap between the two dress pieces.) Pin.

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  Step 13 of 22

  Topstitch the entire necktie, around all the turned-under edges.

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  Step 14 of 22

  Make the belt: Cut a rectangle 10” x (Your waist measurement + 1-1/4 inch seam allowance). So, for a 28” waist, the rectangle will be 10” x 29-1/4”.

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  Step 15 of 22

  Fold lengthwise, right sides together, and sew along the unfinished edge, leaving the ends unsewn. Use a zigzag or overcast stitch. Sew right next to the edge, no seam allowance. Turn the tube inside out. Place seam in the middle.

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  Step 16 of 22

  Pull ends together (with seam on the outside) and zigzag ends together to form a loop.

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  Step 17 of 22

  Turn right side out; it’s a belt!

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  Step 18 of 22

  Try the belt on the dress, on a dress form or on yourself, with the seam in the back.

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  Step 19 of 22

  You’re going to stitch the belt in place at each side seam. Arrange the folds in the belt as you like. I fold mine like a cumberbund, in pleats. Pin in place.

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  Step 20 of 22

  Zigzag pleats in place.

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  Step 21 of 22

  Make sure the hem is even. Turn up 1/2” and zig zag stich the hem on top.

  Ta da! You're done!

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  Step 22 of 22

  A close up . . .