How To: Sew French and Flat-Felled Seams (7646 Views)

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  Step 1 of 12

  1. A French seam is a strong seam, often used in couture sewing, because it helps prevent raveling of sheer, lightweight fabrics, like chiffons, georgettes, organza, and organdy, without showing serged or raw edges. It is sewn unlike other seams, in that the first stitches are sewn with wrong sides facing, and a casing is made for the edges.
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  Step 2 of 12

  1. Place the pieces you wish to sew together with wrong sides facing. The black line indicates the seam I wish to create.
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  Step 3 of 12

  1. Sew the first line of stitches, with close, tight stitches (length 2 or 3), with wrong sides facing, at 3/8” (1 cm).
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  Step 4 of 12

  1. Trim seam allowance to 1/8” (3 mm)
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  Step 5 of 12

  1. Press trimmed seam allowance to one side.
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  Step 6 of 12

  1. Turn one side over the other, so right sides are facing, and trimmed edge is inside. Press flat, so the seam is on the folded edge.
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  Step 7 of 12

  1. Create the casing by sewing on the wrong side, ¼” (6 mm) away from the folded edge.
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  Step 8 of 12

  1. Now you have a French Seam, which has no frayed edges or visible over lock stitches.
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  Step 9 of 12

  1. Close up of finished French Seam.
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  Step 10 of 12

  1. Take it one step further by making a flat-felled seam. A Flat-felled seam is another strong seam that has no apparent seam allowance. It is commonly found in jeans. Press the casing to the side. With the right side of the fabric facing up, topstitch over the casing.
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  Step 11 of 12

  1. Sew again as close as possible to the fold, about ¼” (6mm) from the previous stitches. The finished flat-felled seam has stitches on both sides of the casing.
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  Step 12 of 12

  1. The back of a flat felled seam also has stitching along both sides.