Heavy Knits and Rib Knits (4868 Views)

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  Step 1 of 24

  First you will cut your pattern pieces. For an easier demonstration, we used only a quarter of the regular sleeve length.

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  Step 2 of 24

  Use a larger needle, 90/14, and set the stitch length between 3 and 4.
  Sew a basting stitch directly along the seam allowance.

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  Step 3 of 24

  Place the piece back onto the pattern to make sure it hasn’t stretched out.

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  Step 4 of 24

  If your piece has stretched, gently pull the bobbin threads to guide the fabric back to its original size, then tie off the ends.

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  Step 5 of 24

  Stretch out the cuff to check the give of the rib. As you can see, when this rib is stretched, it is much bigger longer than the sleeve hem. We need to compensate for this by shortening the rib knit cuff.

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  Step 6 of 24

  It should look more like this.

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  Step 7 of 24

  You can test this by stretching out the cuff to match the sleeve, or by measuring it on your wrist, finding the comfortable stretch for your wrist.

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  Step 8 of 24

  You will then sew your sleeve cuff together in a long tube, matching up the ribs, so you get an even stitch.

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  Step 9 of 24

  Stitch, watching carefully that your needle stays along the rib line you are sewing, another tricky thing with heavy rib knits.

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  Step 10 of 24

  Iron your seam open.

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  Step 11 of 24

  You will then sew your sleeve together.

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  Step 12 of 24

  If you have a serger, serge your sleeve seam allowance.

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  Step 13 of 24

  Now, back to our cuff. Here, you can see how nice and neat it looks if you sew right along one of the ribs.

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  Step 14 of 24

  Fold your cuff over, turning right sides out.

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  Step 15 of 24

  You now have your sleeve and cuff ready to be sewn together.

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  Step 16 of 24

  With your sleeve turned inside out, you will pin the cuff inside the sleeve.

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  Step 17 of 24

  Starting by matching up and pinning up your two seams.

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  Step 18 of 24

  You will stretch the cuff out to evenly meet the middle of the other side of the cuff and pin. You will then do the same to the other side and keep stretching and moving around the cuff until it is evenly pinned.

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  Step 19 of 24

  Stitch the cuff to the sleeve removing the pins as you go.

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  Step 20 of 24

  Next serge the seam allowance.

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  Step 21 of 24

  You’re done sewing your cuff to your sleeve and it should look something like this.

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  Step 22 of 24

  Place the sleeve on your ironing ham and iron down the seams.

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  Step 23 of 24

  Flip your sleeve inside out.

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  Step 24 of 24

  Your finished heavy rib knit sleeve and cuff.