Dirndl-Inspired JJ Variation (3757 Views)

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  Step 1 of 6

  REMOVE SEAM ALLOWANCES. We altered the following pattern pieces: Center Front, Center Back, and the Sleeve. Now, we need to mark off the 5/8” seam allowances so we are working with the pure pattern piece and the allowances aren’t getting in the way. For the front and back pieces, we only need to mark off the neckline and the shoulder seam (for the center front, I folded back the facing so I didn’t have to deal with it). For the sleeve, mark off 5/8” all the way around.

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  Step 2 of 6

  SLASH. Now we are going to add more puff to the sleeve cap. We use a method called ‘slash and spread’ for this. Draw three lines, as shown in the picture.

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  Step 3 of 6

  SPREAD. Cut the lines you just drew. You need another piece of paper under the original pattern piece. Draw a straight line to act as a guideline and as the new grainline. Now, spread the pattern pieces so there are three similarly-sized spaces at the sleeve cap, but no spaces at the sleeve hem (unless you are doing your own type of variation!). Use your French Curve to blend the sleeve cap, and use your clear ruler to put the seam allowance back on. Cut out of muslin, sew it up, and adjust and repeat as necessary.

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  Step 4 of 6

  NECKLINE. Use your French Curve to draw a neckline that pleases you. It's best to have right angles at centers and where pattern pieces meet, ie: center front, center back, and shoulder seam. Also, make sure to match the shoulder seams of the Front and Back pattern pieces. Add your seam allowances. Sew up a muslin to check that you like it.

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  Step 5 of 6

  RUFFLE. We cut our out of a rectangle 70" long and 5" wide, used a long basting stitch down both long sides, and gathered to 27" by pulling the bobbin threads. For the short ends, we folded over twice, pressed, and gave a topstitch to finish. To finish, we sandwiched both long gathered sides between 2" wide bias. We played around pinning the ruffle until it suited us, then gave it a topstitch to the garment, with a few handtacks near the 'tail'. This was an experimental ruffle for us, and it should be for you, too. Have fun and take a risk here!

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  Step 6 of 6

  Now that you've altered a pattern and tested it in muslin, sew it up in your fashion fabric. We finished the armholes and neckline with 2" bias. Phew! Good work!