Hong Kong Finish with Blind Hem Stitch (7577 Views)

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  Step 1 of 13

  Mark a 2” hemline, turn up, and press.

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  Step 2 of 13

  To make the bias strips, fold your fabric so the selvages lie at a right angle; the fold will be at exactly 45 degrees. Check out our Sewpedia definition for help, Bias/diagonal cut (cutting on the cross) and also, Make French Bias Binding. Use a lightweight material that matches the garment. Measure 1” wide bias strips along the fold with a ruler and marking tool. (You can also use single or double fold bias tape and press it open).

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  Step 3 of 13

  Cut out the strips and square the ends to the length of the seam you are finishing. If you need to make your strips longer you will have to attach the strips, by placing one over the other at a right angle, sewing right sides together.

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  Step 4 of 13

  With right sides together, pin the bias to the hem.

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  Step 5 of 13

  Now, stitch the bias to the hem with a ¼” seam allowance.

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  Step 6 of 13

  This is what it will look like after stitching.

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  Step 7 of 13

  Press the seam of the bias flat, as shown.

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  Step 8 of 13

  Turn the bias to the underside, over the raw edge, and press.

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  Step 9 of 13

  This is what the hem will look like.

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  Step 10 of 13

  Now pin and topstitch along the edge or stitch in the ditch of the seam, see the Stitch in the Ditch How To for help.

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  Step 11 of 13

  Like with the binding seam finish, you may have excess bias on the underside, which you can trim.

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  Step 12 of 13

  Your Hong Kong hem binding will look like this.

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  Step 13 of 13

  Last, you will secure the hem with a blind hem stitch by hand. See the Hand Sewn Blind Stitch How To for help.