I’m making the Burda Illusion Jacket as a Christmas gift for my stepmom.

The body of the coat will be done in a dark grey wool, and the sleeves in a maroon ponte knit. I spent a good chunk of cash on the fashion fabrics, but then bought an inexpensive acetate lining fabric. I’m about to do the cutting now, but I’m considering going out and getting a different lining first. The acetate I bought seems tough and practical, but also stiff, and drapeless. I’m worried that it will make the coat feel cheap and maybe defeat the breath-ability of the wool?

I’ve heard that silk, while luxurious, isn’t very durable, and breaks down from sweat, better for garments that are only going to be used occasionally. But I spent a long time taping these darn pattern pieces together, so she’d better be wearing it every day! :P

So what’s your prefered jacket lining? Any recommendations? Do you think it would be worth it to go get a Bemberg/Cupro rayon instead? I’ve been reading that cupro is the ‘king of lining’ It’s supposed to be comfortable, it drapes, it wicks away sweat, it’s durable, anti-static ect.

And for my sewing homies living in the Bay Area (Nor Cal) where do you suggest getting lining fabrics, and what do you consider fair prices to pay?

Thanks everybody!

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    Dec 11, 2012, 11.40 PMby katexxxxxx

    Look for tailoring linings: soft and supple and durable, and bremsilk is also breathable.

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    Dec 12, 2012, 06.52 PMby mollytov

    Thanks for the advice Kate. I went back to the fabric store and played with the Bemberg rayon linings. They just felt so delightfully smooth and slinky and soft and wonderful that I bit the bullet and payed the $10/yard. Ugggh, it feels like way too much cash money! Or is that just the price to pay for nice lining?

    Anyways, going to cut it today. Anybody have any tips for working with Bemberg/faux-silk lining? Or lining in general?

    In my garment construction class, I learned that when cutting, it helps to lay the lining fabric on a layer of muslin, and cut through both at the same time to reduce slippage. So I’m gonna try that out. I also heard that using serrated shears helps, but I don’t have the time/money/initiative to go out and get a new pair today.

    Oh, and pins vs. binder clips for holding the lining in place while sewing. One better than the other?

    I’m also not going to pre-wash the stuff. I’ve been reading that it shrinks successively with each wash, so why bother? Besides, this baby’s already dry-clean only with the wool shell. Do you guys pre-wash rayon lings?

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    Dec 12, 2012, 07.15 PMby mollytov

    Uggh, so many questions! Sorry guys. Here’s another one. What tool do you use for marking your lining fabrics? Tailor’s chalk, wash away marker, something else?

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    Dec 13, 2012, 05.07 PMby katexxxxxx

    There is no point at all in buying lovely fabric (HOWEVER much or little you pay for it!) if you then wreck the project with nasty lining!

    I don’t bother with laying the fabric on muslin/calico: way too much of a waste of the calico! No, just use a non-slip cover on your cutting surface: I often use a matte finish PVC oilcloth table cloth! :) Or I cheat utterly and put down all the cutting mats and use the rotary cutter.

    Serrated sheers are over rated. Just make sure the ones you have are SHARP.

    Pins. Use fine ones for silk and ‘double dip’ them – ‘stitch’ at least two stitches with each pin. On tricky bits, hand baste. NO TIME SPENT HAND BASTING IS EVER WASTED!!

    I rarely prewash anything other than linen (which can shrink madly), cotton sateen (we use it to line a lot of costume stuff), or quilting fabrics. In the UK fabrics tend to be sold ‘needle ready’.

    We use a variety of things to mark fabric, depending on the fabric and the purpose of the marking. Anything from biro to silk tailor’s tacks and thread tracing seamlines…

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