I am working on a fitted wedding gown with a sweetheart neckline and a ruffled organza skirt that begins at the hip (basically a fit & flare but with a huge poofy skirt). For the muslin I attached the boning (15 pcs) to the lining (fused). I also attached the bust cups to the lining. The fit is ok, but I am double thinking it and for aesthetic purposes I am wanting to attach the boning and cups to the muslin foundation which is behind the lining. That way when you look inside the dress, you can’t see the top stitching of bones and cups. My question is, will this be a smart move structure wise? Will it be ok to have, starting from skin outward, fused lining, muslin foundation with bones and cups attached, and then the satin which is underlined with cotton batiste. I want to do what is best for the structure of the gown so any advice as to where to attach the bones would help. Also, should I just tac the cups in place or complete sew them down? I’ve seen it done both ways.

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    Jul 26, 2014, 09.04 AMby Deanna31

    Does your dress have lace or beading on the bodice? If not, then I would suggest putting the boning on the lining as there will be an extra layer of cushioning between the boning and the outside layer. I think if the boning was that close you might see the boning outlines too clearly from the outside.

    For boning positioning, you can do as much boning as you like. The more boning the more structure. It also depends on the size of the dress. The larger the size, the more boning you will need. However for a small size I would suggest boning the side seams, 2 in the back (if you have a zip in the back. Or 4 if you have a lace up), and 3 in the front. You will also need to bone across the bust… horizontally through the centre of the bust, down through the centre of the bust, and curved around the bottom of the bust (using a smaller 1/2 cm boning).

    I would suggest tacking the cups with a loose (not too loose) long stitch so that the cups have a little movement.

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