Burda Style For people who sew

Ive sewn a zipper into the back of a dress – bottom half is boucle and top is stretch jersey. Zip is fine until it hits the jersey where it won’t lie flat. Please help! This is a Christmas present :(

Dec 17, 2011, 10.38 PM by blueshoegal

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7 Posts

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  Dec 18, 2011, 01.47 AMby patti-r

  Hi Claire, Did you Reinforce/stabilize zipper area on jersey with light weight interfacing like tricot? (Tape the Seam)

  Did you preshrink the zipper?

  This other suggestion is to sew the zipper on jersey on both sides same directions, like both from top down or both from the bottom up.

  Let me know how it goes, Patti

  Updated: Another reason to preshrink and press zipper if it is packaged it removes the fold marks that would show on many fabrics not only knits or lightweight fabrics. Also if allergic to sizing.
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  Dec 18, 2011, 09.43 AMby blueshoegal

  Hey,

  Thanks for the ideas. I didn’t know you need to pre-shrink a zipper but I was going to suggest it was dry clean or wool wash because of the bottom. I’ve not washed the garment at all so I imagine that isn’t why it’s pretending to be a rollarcoster :)

  I’ve not stabilised – ill give that a go. :)
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  Dec 19, 2011, 09.39 AMby katexxxxxx

  Sewing zips into anything stretchy can be tricky. You need to do it like the zips in this bias disaster project of mine from some years ago: http://www.diceyhome.free-online.co.uk/KatePages/Learning/Bridesmaid_horror_story/a_bias_cut_disaster.htm

  The really important bit is measuring the length of the zip opening it, making the bottom DURING FITTING, and stretching out or shrinking up and stabilizing the zip opening at that length…

  Also, I have never EVER pre-shrunk a zip! Even back in the days of old cotton tape zips. No, not in 48 years of putting zips in, woman and child. I’ve never had one shrink. Or stretch. Use good quality zips like YKK or Opti.
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  Dec 19, 2011, 04.16 PMby patti-r

  Hmmm? When I took a class with Claire Shaeffer years ago, she always suggested that steaming and pressing a zipper was a way of preshrinking, no matter what the brand of zipper.

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    Dec 19, 2011, 08.53 PMby katexxxxxx

    Well, not matter WHAT the brand, and no matter what I’ve done with them, I’ve never known one to shrink. YKK, Opti, RiRi – whatever! Even no-name cotton tape cheapo off the market jobs.

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  Dec 19, 2011, 09.04 PMby bjr99

  Have to second Kate’s take on zippers. I have never had a zipper shrink. This is from cheap to top of the line.
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  Dec 19, 2011, 10.28 PMby blueshoegal

  Alison Smith doesn’t suggest pre-shrinkinng a zipper either.

  Thanks for the advice ladies :)

  xxx
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  Dec 22, 2011, 01.04 PMby mickeygirl

  Some way to keep the fabric from stretching – either stay stitch or put some tape or interfacing do not pull on the zipper when you pin or sew.

  It takes longer but I find hand basting and then pressing or steaming before machine sewing to be the best. Often it all goes wrong when I machine stitch. There is nothing wrong with a neatly hand sewn zipper.