Burda Style For people who sew
God bless everyone,
I have a question. I am in the process of making a coat and the collar is round. Eveyrthing was fine until I had to topstich it. The stitches made little folds in the fabric. Can anyone tell me how I can fix this? I think it might be that I cut the piece off grain but it being a curved piece and cut on the fold isn’t it cut off grain anyway? Any advice would be appreciated.
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Oct 29, 2009, 10.07 PMby KateXXXXXX
Did you baste the edge of the collar before topstitching? On thicker fabric such as coat fabric, this can help.
You also need to be careful which sewing machine foot you use. On thicker fabrics and those with pile, a walking foot or a roller foot will have the advantage over a standard presser foot.
Sew slowly, using a longer stitch length, and ever few stitched, lift the presser foot and lower it again: this will help you to release any ‘drag’ on the fabric as you turn it.
Oct 30, 2009, 06.06 PMby Spiderlily
yeah, it sounds like the thick fabric is getting “scrunched” under the pressure of the presser foot. Like Katexxxxxx said, try a longer stitch length and go slowly adjusting as you go. You can also try lowering your feed dogs and moving the fabric yourself.
Oct 30, 2009, 06.24 PMby katensew
For thick fabric you will have a gauge on the top of the machine that alters the pressure on the presser foot ( usually a screw adjustment that goes from fine to heavy fabrics— this should eliminate the need to lower the dog feed — as this act lessens your control over the fabric.
If the effect is still not right then you could opt for the tailoring method of HAND STITCHING as done on good gent’s jackets — or even using a thick contrast thread like that done on ladies camel coats — around collar and lapels.
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Oct 30, 2009, 10.59 PMby KateXXXXXX
A lot of the ‘entry level’ machines these days don’t have this feature, sadly. But yes, if you have it, experiment with foot pressure. You might need a lot less than you think.