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I am trying my hand at tailoring for my boyfriend’s waistcoat for Ascot. It was a bit of an ambitious project for a beginner!

It is based on Vogue pattern 7488 and I have had difficulty getting the point right on the lapel. I did them exactly at right angles to the colar – I drew it on with a ruler before sewing – but they have still come out curled and silly looking; luckily this is only the toile. Any suggestions?

Also, it is too short but it doesn’t have a ‘lengthen here’ part on the pattern. At what point do you think I should lengthen it?

Any help gratefully appreciated!


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  • Sewing_machine_large

    May 16, 2011, 03.52 PMby bjr99

    Your lapel points should be pointier if you do the following. Sew just to the point. With the needle down pivot the fabric so the next stitch will be at a 90’ angle take ONE stitch. With the needle down pivot the fabric in the direction of the seam and continue on with the seam. It looks like you are squaring off the point but it really does work. Before you turn the garment be sure that you grade the seams. This is where you trim back the fabric in the seam so it is in layers. It decreases the bulk. On the point of the lapel you will have to trim away a lot. It is a combination of not squaring the stiches at the point and not trimming away the excess in the seam allowance that gives you the rounded tip. Try this on another toile to check the technique. Actually, since you are a beginner I would practice the technique on scraps of the actual fabric once you cut out the waistcoat. Also, be sure that you press each step as you go. The iron is your friend so use it and it will greatly improve your resuls.

    My favorite waistcoat/ vest pattern says to lenghten and shorten at the midway point in the side seam. Give it a try and,of course, make another toile.

    Good luck and let us know how it turns out!

  • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

    May 16, 2011, 03.59 PMby katexxxxxx

    Also, when you do the real thing, make sure your interfacings are suitable for the cloth you use. Nasty interfacing can ruin an otherwise excellent item.

  • B796ac2299e8dd2a5530e3ca04ec204d690ca0a0_large

    May 17, 2011, 08.06 AMby kr147

    Hi Kate,

    Thank you so much for your help! I’ll certainly put the finished results up :)


  • Missing

    Jan 19, 2012, 01.47 AMby naurarwen

    You got a lot further tham me to be honest I haven’t even gotten past number 9 which is “Stitch LAPEL 15 to fron topening edge of front, pivoting at small o, as shown.” No matter how many different ways I’ve tried this part I just can’t seem to get it right.

    2 Replies
    • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

      Jan 19, 2012, 09.16 AMby katexxxxxx

      There are TWO parts to the solution of getting a smart collar in tailoring, when you come to stitch it.

      The first is to allow for ‘turn of cloth’. When you turn the collar right way out, you need more cloth to wrap round so the seam doesn’t show: the top visible part needs to be cut about an eighth of an inch bigger all round. You ease this onto the under collar. Then when you turn it through, the seam rolls naturally to the underside of the collar by a small amount. This stops the collar curling up at the points.

      The second is the stitching of the points themselves. Stitch down the seam towards the point. Stop a stitch short of the point and pivot. Take two stitches DIAGONALLY across the point. Pivot again and continue along the seam. Trim close to the stitching at the points. Turn through and press carefully from the under collar side.

    • Missing

      Jun 30, 2014, 03.11 PMby cascabelthepyrate

      I’m stuck a the same place !!! I can’t figure out what the instructions want me to do. There are no line-up marks or notches to go by to locate the piece properly. Right sides together ? Wrong sides together ? Edges together ? Mention was made in another post that the illustration was wrong in some fashion. Any info on exactly how it was wrong ??
    • This is a question
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