Hello all! I need your ideas please. I need to make a couple of summer jackets. When I say summer I mean really hot Greek summer. So we are talking about pure cotton and no lining. But how can I tailor a jacket with no lining? I won’t be able to use interfacing since there will be no lining to hide it. I guess using silk organza as underlining, when sewing with cotton cabardine is pointeless right? Any ideas?

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  • Sewing_machine_large

    Jul 8, 2014, 09.42 PMby bjr99

    How are you using the jackets? Are they business atire or casual. If casual you can make a lovely boxy jaclet with a collar that has buttons down the center front. this style would look great on dressier occaions, out to dinner, with the addition of a soft flowing scarf. Also works well with jeans.

  • Purplefan_large

    Jul 9, 2014, 02.33 AMby purplefan

    I am not convinced that cotton garbardine is suited for a summer jacket given the conditions (hot temperatures, no lining/interfacing) you indicate.

    A cotton/ramie or cotton/linen blend should be able to provide you with a soft jacket look for daily or casual wear. Cotton with maybe 3-5% elastane or Lycra™ for stretch could help with fit and comfort too. A cotton pique or similarly textured cotton would likely hold up well for a dressier jacket.

    You probably want to have princess seaming on your jackets and small welt pockets to keep the silhouette of the jacket smooth.

    I want to suggest this older Burda pattern as sleeveless jackets seemed to be popular this spring/summer in fashion collections-benefit of no sleeves yet the decorative ruffle adds some interest to the garment. http://www.burdastyle.de/burda-style/damen/weste-kurz-lang-volants-westen_pid_244_5381.html

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    Jul 9, 2014, 09.04 AMby katexxxxxx

    I’d go for linen and interface the collar and lapels. Use a Hong Kong finish on the seams.

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    Jul 9, 2014, 10.15 AMby bohemiannow

    I was going for this one http://www.burdastyle.com/pattern_store/patterns/short-sleeve-tuxedo-jacket-62010 and yes I need the jackets for my work environment, otherwise I wouldn’t wear a jacket in the summer!

    Well It’s a soft cabardine with a satin finish, and I chose that over linen because of the style of this jacket that needs some structure.

    That was my idea too katexxxx but I was not sure it would be enough. I also found an article about half lining, but only the thought makes me sweat!

    1 Reply
    • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

      Jul 9, 2014, 10.53 AMby katexxxxxx

      Linen can look just as smart and would be cooler. You can half line in a light cotton muslin in a light weight jacket. Horrid poly ‘lining fabric’ is the pits.

  • Image_large

    Jul 9, 2014, 12.27 PMby CarmenW

    I would use the same pattern but would forego the lining. I would interface the lapel and finish all seams and edges with either bias tape or serge them. My fabric choice would be poplin or broadcloth in cotton.

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    Jul 9, 2014, 01.28 PMby bohemiannow

    Thank you all guys. I’m going shopping in my own stash this time, I dont’ want to spend money at this moment, but if it comes out pretty I’m going to use the pattern again in linen. I love linen no matter how much it wringles!

  • Missing

    Jul 10, 2014, 05.18 AMby motera

    I would make flat fell seams (as one finds in men’s shirts and jeans) Depending on pattern, you can still use interfacing under facings. Another thing you can do is use a layer of the fashion fabric as interfacing, so when it shows it is still OK.

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