Burda Style For people who sew

Hi, I am currently working on a dress with very lightweight jersey. I have used paper under the fabric and between fabric & pressed foot while stitching seams, and this has worked well. However when I top stitched I didn’t see any need to use the paper as the fabric moved well through the machine. All looked good until I’d finished – now the seam has a slight “ruffle” to it and the pockets gap open. Should I have stabilized the fabric more? Any tips would be greatly appreciated.

Deb

Jan 9, 2013, 10.06 PM by Debbie Healey

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  Jan 10, 2013, 05.38 AMby tailorstack

  Sometimes with stretch a good press can eliminate hem fluting. I usually make the thread tension slightly looser. Shoulder seams usually have cotton tape on seam to avoid them dropping. Also be sure to use a ball point needle for all stretch sewing.
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  Jan 10, 2013, 12.49 PMby bjr99

  I actually find that a stretch needle works best with jersy.
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  Jan 10, 2013, 02.56 PMby debdav00

  Hi-I’m new to the forum. I had a similar problem recently when I shortened the sleeves on a lightweight jersey jacket. I didn’t use paper either. I was using twin needle to maintain the stretch in the sleeve. But I later wondered if I should have tried my walking foot. Not sure if that would have helped?
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  Jan 10, 2013, 08.57 PMby Debbie Healey

  Thanks for your help, I will give pressing a go, otherwise i will recut what i can & try stabilising the fabric more. I guess it’s just “trial & error” with these delicate fabrics!
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  Jan 11, 2013, 07.48 PMby katexxxxxx

  On things like pockets, I use a light weight elastic ‘stay’ to maintain stretch and recovery.

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    Jan 12, 2013, 04.50 AMby jenss-1

    That’s a great idea. I’m going to try it!