Hello all!
I got me yersterday this beutiful medium nap synthetic fur and I’ve planning my new coat!
It’s very thin as a fabric and it won’t be warm enough. On the other hand a fur is worn when it’s cold. So I thought about underilining it with cotton flannel, to add some body too. Is cotton flannel appropriate for synthetic fur?

Oct 17, 2012, 10.22 AM by bohemiannow

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  • 958f82a55d1f911aea11daf7f2e4e6295bbe805d_large

    Oct 17, 2012, 10.22 AMby bohemiannow

    Second thought…how about a woven wool fabric?

  • Missing

    Oct 17, 2012, 02.20 PMby judypeg

    I would line it with a heavy satin lining fabric. It will make it more windproof. Judy

    1 Reply
    • 958f82a55d1f911aea11daf7f2e4e6295bbe805d_large

      Oct 18, 2012, 05.52 AMby bohemiannow

      yes of course and I’m thinking about contrasting colour, but i’m talking about underlining, not lining… :)

  • Burda_picture_large

    Oct 18, 2012, 06.31 AMby Wendy Ruggles-Wolfe

    If you can find a wool that has the same washing/care characteristics and has a drape that doesn’t overpower the “fur” – I’d use that. I work out-of-doors & find that cotton outerwear during winter is rather pointless.

    But I’m not an expert at selecting underlinings fabrics – so I’m interested to hear what others suggest.

  • Missing

    Oct 18, 2012, 12.54 PMby tzyg0nka

    I would interline it with thinsulate or use that lining that has an interlining built in.

    1 Reply
    • Burda_picture_large

      Oct 19, 2012, 07.57 AMby Wendy Ruggles-Wolfe

      Now that I know what an “interline” is (grin)…

      Wouldn’t a thinsulate interline, attached to the lining, make the coat feel like fur over a down dress?

      It seems that using a wool flannel sewn with the “fur” would create a drape that more closely resembles actual fur (oh, this is going to sound creepy – but wouldn’t the wool flannel would act like the missing skin)?

      Just a thought. I’ve just started to learn about underlinings so I’m very curious.

  • Missing

    Oct 18, 2012, 02.27 PMby tzyg0nka

    The special lining is called Sunblock and is available online.if you can’t find it in your fabric store. It has a satin face and bonded interfacing back. thinsulate is also available online at Vogue fabrics

  • 958f82a55d1f911aea11daf7f2e4e6295bbe805d_large

    Oct 18, 2012, 05.43 PMby bohemiannow

    Thank you all for your answers, but I’m not asking about lining. I want to underline the fur, like you underline a special garment with silk organza, or you interface a jacket with horse hair canvas. It’s the fabric between the fashion fabric and lining. Maybe you already know that, and I don’t get it… sorry

  • Burda_picture_large

    Oct 19, 2012, 07.41 AMby Wendy Ruggles-Wolfe

    Why not use a wool flannel? (Yes, I understand you are talking underlining… it’s one of the techniques I’m learning as part of a class. That is why your post caught my eye.)

    I found a Threads article that might help. http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/4999/understanding-underlining

    Just to drive us crazy – they introduce a new term “interlining” – which is an underlining which provides insulation in addition to stabilizing the fashion fabric. They suggest a wool interlining for winter jackets & cotton for spring.

    Interestingly, they give you the option of sewing the interlining to either the fashion fabric OR the actual lining! It all depends upon the cut/design of the garment & how you want the fashion fabric to drape.

    The article does a nice job of getting into some nitty-gritty.

    Thanks for posting this question! I’ve learned a lot which applies to the stuff I’m learning in class. Very interesting & helpful.

    1 Reply
    • 958f82a55d1f911aea11daf7f2e4e6295bbe805d_large

      Oct 19, 2012, 08.18 AMby bohemiannow

      Oh yes I’ve seen this. I think it will be better aplied to the fur and not the lining, unless I decide to use another pattern. I wont’ use it as interfacing, so I guess the drape won’t be much changed. I think I’ve never seen wool flannel in those couple of stores I visit, I’ll look better.
      I looked all around the web and I didn’t find anyone who mentions what kind of fabric they used to underline faux fur. How bad could flannel be anyway?
      Any pattern suggestions? My first choice is one from BWF current issue, but all fur patterns are kind of buggy and that looks weird on my body type. I need to have a defined waist. I was thinking about leather inserts… I have to look through that…

  • Missing

    Oct 19, 2012, 10.27 PMby tzyg0nka

    Thinsulate interlining is usually applied to the outer fabric not the lining like a wool interlining and is very warm and lightweight. The Sunback lining acts as both a lining and an interlining.

    1 Reply
    • 958f82a55d1f911aea11daf7f2e4e6295bbe805d_large

      Oct 22, 2012, 08.19 AMby bohemiannow

      Thank you about this tip. I just found out what it is! Unfortunately the amount I would need costs 23 dollars and shipping 42…so no… looking for something else! I’ll look for it in local market too.

  • Missing

    Oct 22, 2012, 03.20 PMby tzyg0nka

    Cotton flannel wouldn’t be bad, it just wouldn’t be very warm. I once interlined a coat with a moth-eaten wool blanket (free). Aside from being a bit heavy it worked. See what you have lying around the house. An old lightweight synthetic blanket should also work. Good luck!

  • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

    Oct 22, 2012, 06.13 PMby katexxxxxx

    To sort the confusion:

    Underlining: a fabric you mount the outer fashion fabric to, to give it body. Do not confuse with the hair canvas used as ‘body canvas’ in tailoring… You can use anything from silk organza to light weight wool flannel. You don’t want to use something TOO heavy on a light weight cloth. At present we have completely underlining a set of coats made from silk dupion in a medium weight cotton calico, to give the dupion enough body to tailor. Our last silk dupion project was underlined in silk organza, to give body without adding weight.

    Interlining: a fabric you place between the fashion fabric (plus it’s underlining: you treat the two as one once you have mounted it) and the lining, to add warmth. You can use something like Thinsulate which is polyester microfiber hollowfil and stays warm even when wet, cotton bump, wool domette, or any other fluffy air-filled fabric that does not compress in use. You want it to maintain its bounce to keep you warm.

    Lining: a smooth finish fabric that goes between the garment and the wearer, to assist in taking it on and off, and to preserve and protect the structural layers of the garment. We often use silk habotai in light weight garments, assitate twill linings for coats, as it’s smooth and durable, and cotton sateen for historical garments.

    Interfacing: a fabric usually attached to the FACINGS of a garment to stabilize them. It can also encompass the hair canvas sections used as body canvas, shoulder support, and collar structural layers in tailoring. It can be either sewn in or fused.

    1 Reply
    • 958f82a55d1f911aea11daf7f2e4e6295bbe805d_large

      Oct 24, 2012, 06.09 AMby bohemiannow

      Oh thanks! I guess wrong word can make all the difference! I’ll try to find thinsulatem in local market, but if I won’t get lucky I’ll just use wool, shipping from abroad will drive the budget through the roof.
      Why do you think fur patterns are always so loose? Wouldn’t they be more flattering if the somehow followed the body lines, without being tight of course?

  • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

    Oct 24, 2012, 09.52 AMby katexxxxxx

    Sorry, there was a spelling addition in there! No M. Thinsulate is the brand name of a ppatented product, and you are unlikely to find it in a local market. It’s mostly use in the clothing industry as a slimline insulation, especially in outdoors sports gear. You can buy it buy the meter in some places. I recommend looking online in places like Shelby, Pennine Outdoors, Point North, and the other places on Penny’s list: http://www.specialtyoutdoors.com/tips/sources.asp

  • 958f82a55d1f911aea11daf7f2e4e6295bbe805d_large

    Oct 25, 2012, 10.51 AMby bohemiannow

    ok I’ll look for it, but a few sites i found on my own had an overwelming postal charge! I’ve seen lining with quilted batting. That could work too, right? Otherwise I’ll go with the wool option. I’m also thinking about leather inserts, around the waist maybe.

    2 Replies
  • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

    Oct 26, 2012, 08.18 AMby katexxxxxx

    In that case it’s a quilted lining and you don’t need an interlining for warmth. If it isn’t windproof you might still want to underline the fur fabric for that and to stabilize it if it’s very stretchy. Otherwise just use a good low heat fusible interfacing for the front opening and any pocket areas.

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