I’m making the Starlet Suit Jacket on Craftsy (so excited to learn tailoring!) but I had to take the jacket in at the sides quite a bit (about an inch on either side). I’m worried that the armholes are too small but I’m not sure exactly how I should change them. It seems to me that I should just cut along the bottom on the armhole, making it deeper, so that the upper shoulder and sides of the armhole remain unchanged. (I hope that makes sense). Is that the proper way to fix things? How do I know how much to cut so that the sleeves still fit?

Thanks in advance for your help.

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  • 1253ef6da08f9a1c901d80b9de58822a5056c690_large

    Jun 14, 2012, 02.22 PMby candyjoyce

    Are the sleeves the right width for your arms? If not you could try taking these in to match the new armhole.

    Another alternative is to redraft your sleeves from scratch. There are good resources for this online, it’s quite mathematical but incredibly satisfying.

    Another way would be to redraw the old arm hole pattern over your newly altered pattern, I can’t fully picture if this would work properly.

    Whatever you decide to do make sure you check the sleeve pattern piece against the jacket pattern piece before cutting your fabric, or better yet make a muslin to check that the sleeve fits the armhole and your arm.

    Let us know how you get on.

    Cheers, Candy

  • 47a4d9a4dec96d14e0de81c508064122d5d20420_large

    Jun 17, 2012, 10.38 AMby straycat

    Been there, done that, Toast :). What you’re saying works. Draw it out and you’ll see. Pattern wise, it’s essentially just shifting the whole edge inwards. Had to do it on a suit jacket I just made. Had to shift everything over like two inches, but I like’em tight! One thing to note is that at the same time, you will have to bring your shoulders in an inch, too. If not, you’ll have wide shoulders and your arm will hang down instead of being to the side of you. Looks really funny.

  • 20fb33df4a0c917817bd1d9027a1ba824e4a45e1_large

    Dec 4, 2012, 03.49 PMby barbaraagatha

    Hello, I had the same issue on this blazer: http://www.burdastyle.de/burda-style/damen/wickelblazer-longblazer_pid_183_3834.html I took in the sides and shoulder seams 2cm instead of stitching at my seam allowance of 1.5cm.

    This left my assembled sleeve absolutely huge for the armhole. I took it in and took it in…and just never worked. I wondered if I should draf a new sleeve, but blazers have a two part sleeve, so I’m unsure how that would work out.

    Knocking my head against the wall right now…

    IDEAS?

  • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

    Dec 4, 2012, 06.38 PMby katexxxxxx

    You need to make sure that the armscye you have after fitting the body of the jacket is plenty large enough. Mark on your toile where the new seam line round the armscye needs to be.

    If it is then significant;y smaller than your sleeve head, you will need to reduce that… Be careful when you do this that you don’t reduce the width of the sleeve so it is unwearable.

    Slash the sleeve down to the elbow and overlap the top a little. Then reduce the HEIGHT of the sleeve head, and true up all the seamlines. Cut a toile for the altered sleeve head and fit. Your sleeve head needs to be about an inch larger than the armscye along the seamline, and you ease it in to fit.

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