Good Evening all,

I am currently working on jackets with padded shoulder.But somehow i am not able to get similar look.Can u please help.I am sewing piece of foam in between sleeve and bodice .As inserting shoulder pad is not helping.What am i doing wrong?

Please find design link attached: http://audrey.buzznet.com/user/photos/shoulder-pads-chic-mess/?id=58270861

Thanks!!!

Missing

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  • Patti_12-28-2011_large

    Feb 5, 2012, 01.34 AMby patti-r

    You need a sewing ham for shaping, need to build up support layers, it will be trial and error.

    Sorry we just got company maybe someone can give you a list of items you may need.

    They are called Balmain Shoulder Pads do a google.

    http://www.burdastyle.com/techniques/customize-shoulder-pad-size

    http://www.pattern-making.com/shoulder-pads/

  • Missing

    Feb 5, 2012, 02.23 AMby tanuyadav

    Hey patti-r ,thank you so much i have used the techniques mentioned on pattern-making website ,but i am not getting the look and if i am able to achieve the look .It feels very uncomfortable wearing.I am not able to understand what am i doing wrong? any suggestions?

  • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

    Feb 5, 2012, 10.10 AMby katexxxxxx

    For this level of exaggeration, you need to use a technique like this:

    http://assets.burdastyle.com/project_images/assets/000/011/255/d7ef0fb69201765c6cd34200411d59e890ee2fa1_large.jpg?1243061155

    The sleeve head and sleeve get cut separately. In addition to the usual shoulder pad, you need to stiffen the sleeve head. In normal tailoring you would pad the sleeve head over the top along the seam with Domette. Using this technique, you support the separate sleeve head piece with chest canvas. You need to take this right to the edge of the sleeve head and also support the sleeve head with Domette to help maintain the lift.

  • Missing

    Feb 5, 2012, 03.15 PMby tanuyadav

    Thanks Katexxx ,will try this way and will update the forum about my achievement or failure if any .Thanks

  • Missing

    Mar 1, 2012, 05.07 PMby tanuyadav

    Hello Ladies,

    I am back again ….i tried all the suggestion but am not getting the effect i am looking for.I have read in lot of blog to give that look one should fill the top of the shoulder.Is it true? To refresh your memory i am attaching another link http://www.elle.com/Runway/Ready-to-Wear/Fall-2009-RTW/BALMAIN/BALMAIN/(imageIndex)/2#mode=base;slide=2;.

    Please i need help .I am getting so desperate :(

  • Missing

    Mar 1, 2012, 05.09 PMby tanuyadav

    used Domette too but did not give that high rise feel

  • Patti_12-28-2011_large

    Mar 1, 2012, 06.18 PMby patti-r

    Sorry your having a problem, they are really pain to achieve the support needed, need to build layers of the Domette in shoulder pad. Requires Trial and Error.

    This is a little off topic but want to share this experience: My grand daughter wanted to be Lady Gaga for Halloween, ended up using corset boning in the upper sleeve seam like where a header would go, from notch to notch and to portions of the shoulder pad also used Horse Hair Canvas and batting/wadding. but this was just for a costume, it looked like a pair of female football shoulder pads.

    Found this interesting look for sleeves not a Balmain but they used Domette about the same as Black out Lining Scroll down page see sleeve on dress form:

    http://themakeden.blogspot.com/2010_02_01_archive.html

    Hoping Kate or others have more input for you.

  • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

    Mar 1, 2012, 08.13 PMby katexxxxxx

    As I said earlier, I cut the sleeve head and the main part of the sleeve separately. The way to make them stand up like this is to shape the two separate pieces. I’ve posted a close-up pic of the sleeve and a diagram to start you on shaping and cutting the sleeve head here: http://katexxxxxx.livejournal.com/142676.html (cut and paste the link).

    1 Reply
    • Patti_12-28-2011_large

      Mar 1, 2012, 08.56 PMby patti-r

      Kate, Your the greatest!! That is a great visual diagram!!! Patti

  • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

    Mar 1, 2012, 10.51 PMby katexxxxxx

    Good, innit. ;) You can also make a similar shape using darts, but it tends to have more of a ‘threepenny bit’ cornered finish to it.

  • Missing

    Mar 2, 2012, 01.41 PMby tanuyadav

    Hello Patti-r/Kate,

    Thank you so much!! I am trying what kate has suggested,Will surely update you guys!!!

  • Missing

    Mar 7, 2012, 04.06 PMby tanuyadav

    Hey Kate/Patti-r

    I really appreciate your help ,but don’t know what am i doing wrong…i shoulder is just drooping .On the body form not like yours kate ….after wearing it ….looks like stand up …..am i doing anything wrong? Kate can you please guide me how much sleeve head should i separate …..i think that is what i am doing wrong.

    How i sampled was cut a part of shoulder as well as top of the sleeve head.and then had shoulder pad as well as made some more pads giving it a height to the shoulder sleeve cut and in the end applied domette to give it stiffness at the base of all. Is this correct way of doing it?

    Sorry for bothering you.But i want to do it perfect:(

    1 Reply
    • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

      Mar 7, 2012, 05.14 PMby katexxxxxx

      Can you take some pics and post them so I can see where you are having the problem? I can’t give any more advice until I see what you are doing.

  • Missing

    Mar 8, 2012, 03.34 PMby tanuyadav

    Kate,sorry for late response.send you a message….Please respond

    1 Reply
    • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

      Mar 8, 2012, 03.49 PMby katexxxxxx

      Have done! :)

  • Missing

    Mar 8, 2012, 04.47 PMby tanuyadav

    thanks…u r the best

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