I need help with where to place boning and how to sew it. What are tips, tricks and techniques. or if u know a tutorial post the webpage. Thank You

Feb 9, 2010, 08.33 PM by betox702xsincity

Gil_large

5 Posts

  • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

    Feb 9, 2010, 08.43 PMby katexxxxxx

    It’ll depend on what you are boning…

    16th C -18th C stays are very different from 19th C corsets, which are different from 20th C corsets, and they are all different from lightly boned bustiers, the boning you put in a strapless gown that holds it up (and there are different ways of doing THAT according to the style of gown… ). And the boning in a 17th C gown bodice is different from that of a 19th C bodice, as well as different from all the rest of the above.

    So, what is it you are boning?

    1 Reply
  • Dsc_1292a_large

    Feb 10, 2010, 01.49 AMby misslivia

    I would suggest making an under corset of sorts to support the hang of the dress. I think that vertical boning would be fine, especially if it is on a well made foundation piece. Essentially, the fashion fabric design should just drape off the foundation from the top.

    Though I haven’t used this book, I do own it and it gives good information and starting point for how to build a strong foundation part to your dress: http://www.amazon.com/Sewing-Special-Occasions-Evening-Dresses/dp/0865732876

  • Malissa_hs_large

    Feb 10, 2010, 04.18 AMby mlssfshn

    Also on Vintage Sewing Tight Linings and Boning is a good book that explains how to properly bone a bodice or fitted lining.

    1 Reply
    • Gil_thumb

      Feb 10, 2010, 07.14 PMby betox702xsincity

      Thank You very much that was really helpful

  • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

    Feb 10, 2010, 11.25 AMby katexxxxxx

    OK, I agree that you need an internal structure for that gown. This is made first, and then the gown is formed over it.

    You MIGHT get away with the poly boning, if it’s the sort you make boning channels for and slide them in… And the figure is slight and an A/B cup fitting. I’d be more likely to use spiral steels for the main boning and a pair of flat steels either side of the central back opening, especia;;y for a size 12 and above, and anyone with a C or larger cup fitting. The zip will close over this after you have hooked the foundation together.

    The books mentioned above will give a good idea of how to make this sort of foundation. You need to make it FIRST, and get it fitting properly before you make the gown over it. The two are attached together along the top.

    1 Reply
    • Gil_thumb

      Feb 10, 2010, 07.16 PMby betox702xsincity

      I am going to purchase spiral steel and flat steel boning and hopefully it makes it easier.
      Thank You

  • 985f0154fdefdf284531d76b36fbffee7a42548e_large

    Feb 10, 2010, 11.55 PMby katexxxxxx

    You’ll need something like wire cutters or mini cutting disk for the spiral steels, if buying on the roll, and the correct size of end caps. For the flat steels the best cutter is a pair of tin snips. You’ll need to trim the corners off the ends and file them smooth, and then tip them. You can buy tipping fluid, or wrap the ends in PTFE tape – plumbers thread tape!

    For a gown for a light lass, quarter inch spirals and half inch flats will be enough. For a larger lass, use heavier spirals and flats.

    1 Reply

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