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This is my first time using Burda and downloading a pattern is a new concept for me. I’m also confused about seam allowances. When it says — This pattern doesn’t include seam allowance – does that mean the allowance isn’t printed on the pattern? That is OK for me. Or, do you have to take a ruler and add the seam allowance after cutting out the pattern? You would place the pattern pieces on the fabric, use a ruler and chalk and add the allowance? It would be too tedious. I’m hoping to use Suit Trousers 04/2011 #117B. I like this style because you don’t get the bulk from a fly and it also has pockets.

Thanks – I hope I can use this pattern.


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    Jun 8, 2014, 10.19 PMby Sabrina Wharton-Brown

    It means you have to add the seam allowance with a ruler. A lot of people prefer this because they can alter/adapt the pattern more easily for fit and style, and can use whatever seam allowance they like. I use 1cm on most seams, and change for the zips depending on which zip application I am using. You can also use whatever hem allowance you like, which can change depending on your fabric (or how much fabric you have).

  • Img_5195_large

    Jun 12, 2014, 02.01 AMby DGulleyDesigns

    Since the pattern doesn’t included the seam allowance, you can add whatever seam allowance that you like. I generally use an 1/2 inch seam allowance for my side seams and I used a 1/4 inch for most necklines. I generally use a 1 1/2 seam allowance for my hem. Just know that the seam allowance is the distance from the edge of your fabric to where the needle is position. You can adjust the amount to fit your personal needs.

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    Jun 18, 2014, 02.12 PMby DanaRose84

    I’ve found that the best way to add seam allowances is to just use a double tracing wheel when I’m tracing the pattern onto the fabric. They are adjustable so you can choose the depth of the seam allowance.

    1 Reply
    • Missing

      Jan 30, 2015, 03.19 PMby tailormaid2

      Do you cut double layer or single layer when using the double tracing wheel? What tracing paper do you use? If you cut double layer, do you have the wrong side out and paper on top and underneath the fabric? Thanks!

  • Purplefan_large

    Jun 20, 2014, 03.17 PMby purplefan

    If the new sewer is used to North American patterns, it might be easier just to make all seam allowances the same size such as half-inch to make the process faster when adding allowances, then cutting out the fabric. Burda patterns online and from the international (BurdaStyle from Germany) magazine suggest various seam allowances on the different seams-it can be overwhelming for a new sewist but worth trying on a simple pattern first.

  • 1212_large

    Jul 15, 2015, 09.52 PMby slitherydee

    Be careful using the double tracing wheel. I’ve read many reviews of the wheels shifting during tracing (I think because some of the products are more cheaply made than others) and creating an inconsistent seam allowance. My current process is to print the pattern out on paper, tape it all together, trace the pattern out on to freezer paper, then add seam allowance with a ruler to the freezer paper pattern (a transparent, curved design ruler is a big help here) and finally cut. A lot of work for some of the more complicated pieces which is mainly why I avoid Burda patterns unless they’re very attractive!

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    Jul 19, 2015, 08.59 AMby PennyMac

    Take two very soft pencils (you can get them from art shops), tape them together with a slice of eraser sandwiched between. The slice of eraser needs to be the right thickness to hold the pencil points apart at your desired seam allowance. You can then trace the sewing and seam lines in one go. You’ll need to use a bit of trial and error to get the right thickness of eraser, but it doesn’t take long. I’ve seen someone else suggest using rubber bands rather than tape to hold the pencils together, which would make sharpening the pencils easier, but I haven’t tried that myself, yet.

  • Missing

    Aug 7, 2015, 10.27 PMby reevespm

    I bough pattern 107B, simple aline dress. I am new to burda. Having trouble with sizing. Does it explain ease of pattern somewhere. I wear a 12 across the shoulders but bust is much bigger. If anyone has used this pattern please tell me how to adjust for the bust.

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    Dec 29, 2016, 03.37 AMby JannieBoots

    Making a pattern from download or the magazine is a lot of work no matter how you do it. After taping the pages together, I trace all the pieces onto tracing paper, being sure to leave enough room between the pieces to add the seam allowances. I use 5/8" because that is what I’m used to. You must not forget to include all the markings on every piece. It is much easier to see the markings on the download version. The magazine version pattern markings can be extremely confusing and difficult to find! Using an “SA” (seam allowance ruler) can help immensely. I’ve tried the double pencil and double tracing wheel methods and find them too inaccurate. Be sure to add the recommended hem allowances also. Read the instructions carefully when cutting out. Often you must “draft your own” pieces and the instructions will tell you how. Burda is not like envelope patterns with all those lovely, fabulous instructions and illustrations. When I started using Burda about a year ago it took me a while to get used to the process and acquire all the necessary supplies. Get your tracing paper and SA ruler from Amazon. Good luck!

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